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    tillerman's Avatar
    tillerman Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Aug 12, 2007, 11:31 AM
    Hampton Bay fan remote control
    Can anyone supply the pinout for the Molex connector in a Model UC7051R remote control receiver? Or just the pins for 110 volt AC power?
    ceilingfanrepair's Avatar
    ceilingfanrepair Posts: 5,733, Reputation: 109
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    #2

    Aug 21, 2007, 07:28 PM
    No, I doubt anyone would know that.

    What is wrong with your fan?
    bad bill's Avatar
    bad bill Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Sep 17, 2007, 09:43 PM
    I am also looking for the molex pinouts for this receiver. I started tracing from the connector, and to help answer your question, I THINK the two outer column middle pins when viewed from the top with the key upwards are the power, and the closest one to the center hole being neutral. They have the heaviest circuit traces and go to the switching triacs. Do NOT quote me on this, but if the unit is expendable, you could carefully try it with a fusable link, and then use the remote to see what the other pins do. Aside from the antenna lead pin, some come from relays, some from capacitors, it's much more complicated than a plain old receiver with 2 motor pigtail leads available at the hardware store. Meanwhile I'm still looking before I power this one up. I want to be sure the pins I select can drive the fan properly before I go through the hassle of stuffing it up into the ceiling. I've got to give em' credit though, making an AC fan reversible like that.

    BB
    ceilingfanrepair's Avatar
    ceilingfanrepair Posts: 5,733, Reputation: 109
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    #4

    Sep 22, 2007, 02:21 PM
    What was wrong with your original receiver? You will need electronics from it, such as the capacitor and the switches operated by the relays.
    bad bill's Avatar
    bad bill Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Sep 22, 2007, 10:42 PM
    I don't follow you about needing relay or capacitor from the old fan remote receiver. The reason I'm replacing it, is that the old one smoked. Perhaps caused by me putting too high wattage bulbs in while testing it out. I haven't pulled the old one out of the ceiling fixture yet to see if it's salvagable, however it made a lot of smell. If it's just a blown triac, no problem, but if other parts were involved, I might as well replace it, cause again, it's a hassle installing and removing those, with ladder work and all. Before it blew, I knew something was wrong, perhaps a loose or shorted wire, because controls for the light and fan were affecting each other (e.g. fan speeds up when lights are set brighter).

    As for the old fan, it's the first one I put in my house years ago (now I have seven!) It's a 4 blade model, whereas the others are all five blade. If you want it, you can have it, but I'm in Northern VA. I often find nicer, 5-bladed fans at the local thrift shop for $15 or less.

    I just wish that other remote I paid something like $8 for on Ebay had the pigtails vs the connector. If I knew exactly why all the pins to the motor part and what they did, I'm sure there would be some leads to do the job without all the frills, signaling or phase change they're doing to make the reversible motor work. The upside is that I installed a reversible Hampton Bay fan in my living room, and now I have a second remote for it to keep on the wall mount, as I usually keep the other one on the coffee table next to me and have to become the "designated fan controller", so to speak. None of the universal remotes support reverse, or the RF signal required for these units. I have a remote light dimmer "mouse" that plugs in between the wall and a lamp and uses any remote's optical signal to control the lamp. I'm toying with the idea of building that into the ceiling fan inside the glass dome so that I can control the lights with my universal remote. As for the fan, I generally leave it running at a low of medium speed anyway, and have the RF remote if I want to change that.

    One other thought, If I do get up into that fan, I surely will see how the motor side is wired to the receiver, as long as I don't have to dig too deep. It works great now and is rock steady at all speeds. Something I noticed about that fan which makes me think they're sending a signal to the motor side, is that when you hit reverse and the fan starts to slow down, you'll hear the faint click of a relay, suggesting that the windings have been reversed somehow.

    c/ya
    Bill
    ceilingfanrepair's Avatar
    ceilingfanrepair Posts: 5,733, Reputation: 109
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    #6

    Sep 23, 2007, 02:42 PM
    If the receiver fried the easiest thing to do is to replace it with a like receiver. To do anything else will take some serious electronics knowledge.

    Ceiling fans use PCS motors with a run capacitor. To reverse the fan, you switch which motor coil has the capacitor. The capacitor and reverse switch are usually part of the receiver and the fan cannot work without it.

    I am generally looking for older fans (1980s and older) with four or six blades. If you know the make of what you have or have a picture, I can tell you if I am interested.
    bad bill's Avatar
    bad bill Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Sep 27, 2007, 03:38 PM
    This fan I believe I bought in the late 80s or early 90s from Price Club (Costco). It has 4 blades in dark oak color, one side has a gold pattern embossed (silkscreened) to it, the other sides are plain dark oak. It's a ceiling hugger. I don't recall if it ever had any drop hardware (post and ball swivel), and judging by the housing, probably not. The housing and lamp fixture are a sort of gun metal grey, the housing has vertical sides with french F shaped vent holes in it, and the housing bevels out about 3/4 in on all sides about 1.5 in below the ceiling. The bottom of the housing has a nice lace metalwork over the black dust screen, and the four lamp globes are amber tulips (?) with rows of bumps on the outside. Just yer basic fan, not a Casablanca, but is quiet and coasts very well (a feature I look for indicating bearing quality). It's also got the center and side pull chains and a fan reverse switch. If my digital camera wasn't on the fritz, I'd send you a photo of it.

    If you're interested in it, I might just replace it when I do the receiver, which I'm going to try to fix. I have some electronics experience and already ordered a few triacs. If it works, fine else I'll start shopping on Ebay for another one, or try to get this reversible receiver wired in. BTW thanks for the info, two leads from the receiver are definitely wired to a large mylar cap. Besides, most of my other fans are Hampton Bay, and I'd like to standardize as much as possible, so long as they all don't look the same.

    Bill
    cbrewer375's Avatar
    cbrewer375 Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Sep 27, 2007, 04:05 PM
    I've purchased a Hampton Bay remote ceiling fan. Can I have the option to control the fan by either the wall switch and the remote?
    ceilingfanrepair's Avatar
    ceilingfanrepair Posts: 5,733, Reputation: 109
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    #9

    Sep 28, 2007, 11:37 AM
    Hampton Bay is crap, I would have as few fans by them as possible.

    I doubt I am interested in the fan if it is a ceiling hugger, but can't confirm without a picture. Thanks though.
    ceilingfanrepair's Avatar
    ceilingfanrepair Posts: 5,733, Reputation: 109
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    #10

    Sep 28, 2007, 11:38 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by cbrewer375
    I've purchased a Hampton Bay remote ceiling fan. Can i have the option to control the fan by either the wall switch and the remote?
    To do this you would need to buy a RF wall switch (it will probably come with a receiver which you won't need) and set it to the same frequency as the remote.

    Ceiling fan remote controls - help and FAQ- Ceiling Fans N More

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