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    ThomasCKeat's Avatar
    ThomasCKeat Posts: 157, Reputation: 12
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    #21

    Jul 16, 2007, 06:55 PM
    Guess you guys have some history
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
    Ultra Member
    		  
    #22

    Jul 16, 2007, 07:02 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by ThomasCKeat
    guess you guys have some history

    Yeah, a bit.
    labman's Avatar
    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
    Uber Member
    		  
    #23

    Jul 17, 2007, 11:03 AM
    Yadda, yadda, yadda.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
    		  
    #24

    Jul 17, 2007, 02:16 PM
    Play nice guys! First, no compression fittings inside walls period! Next, in order to help we will have to know the material your pipes are made of. Without that knowledge we're just guessing. So let us know and we'll instruct you on the best way to cap off your pipes. Regards, Tom
    Turbopro25's Avatar
    Turbopro25 Posts: 16, Reputation: 2
    New Member
    		  
    #25

    Jul 18, 2007, 06:14 PM
    All the arguing isn't necessary lets just help this guy with his problem. Everyone has different ideas, that's fine, but we can all figure out the best way to fix the problem together. Without trying to be a JERK... I am suggesting using a soldered cap. I will leave it at that.
    jon123's Avatar
    jon123 Posts: 240, Reputation: 3
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    #26

    Aug 2, 2007, 04:57 PM
    Okay, I want to replace the shower fixtures with the same kit. There is only one shut off valve and that is on the cold water feed going into the gas water heater. I need a a step by step for shutting down and relieve the water pressure so as to replace the shower facuets. I am also concerned about water pressure release and if it is necessary to purge water heater after shutting off the cold water line to this heater. Also does this water heater pilot have to be turned off if the cold water feed is closed? I do not want to risk the fear of overheating the water heater by closing the cold feed if say the pilot light is on during the project.
    jon123's Avatar
    jon123 Posts: 240, Reputation: 3
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    #27

    Aug 2, 2007, 05:01 PM
    Should there be shut off valves on the water lines feeding the tub/shower as there are with sink installations?
    scirocco70's Avatar
    scirocco70 Posts: 128, Reputation: 9
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    #28

    Aug 2, 2007, 11:16 PM
    I'm not a plumber, and I don't know about the codes... but I would say yes, I would want them.

    Of course, valves are no use if they're behind a finished wall, as shower plumbing so often is...


    ~aaron
    scirocco70's Avatar
    scirocco70 Posts: 128, Reputation: 9
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    #29

    Aug 2, 2007, 11:26 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by jon123
    okay, I want to replace the shower fixtures with the same kit.
    Good idea, this is always easier!

    There is only one shut off valve and that is on the cold water feed going into the gas water heater.
    Are you sure? There should always be a valve in the cold line just before the water heater, but there should also be a main (whole-house) shutoff... Trace the water from where it comes in (meter or well-pipe) to find it.

    I need a a step by step for shutting down and relieve the water pressure so as to replace the shower facuets. I am also concerned about water pressure release and if it is necessary to purge water heater after shutting off the cold water line to this heater.
    Here's what I would do (as a semi-educated homeowner/duffer)

    -- Find and close the whole-house valve
    -- Make sure the valve is really closed; turn on the highest sink/faucet in the house and make sure there's no flow. Some water will come out, but it should stop pretty quickly.
    -- Now turn on the hot water at the same place, should get no-flow
    -- If this wasn't already the shower you're working on, go open those valves too. The only water that will come out is what's in the pipes above the valve, by gravity.
    -- Go find the valves that are the next lowest (lower) than the shower, and open them. This gets the residual water level in the pipes BELOW the shower. You can't solder on waterfilled pipes.
    -- -- If there is no lower sink/faucet, you can let some water out of the water heater drain. NOT the pressure relief valve at the top, but the hose-bib drain at the bottom. It's a good idea to flush your heater anyhow. Opening the water heater will lower the water in BOTH the cold and hot water pipes.

    -- When you get done, close all the sink/faucet valves, and go open the main valve. Go to the highest sink again and bleed the air out by opening the valve. It will sputter.
    -- Go check your work on the shower valve to be sure it isn't leaking!

    Also does this water heater pilot have to be turned off if the cold water feed is closed? I do not want to risk the fear of overheating the water heater by closing the cold feed if say the pilot light is on during the project.
    I have never owned or worked with a gas water heater, so I'm not much help. It seems to me that it won't be dangerous as long as you don't use the water while the main valve is closed, which is pretty much impossible anyhow. Kill the pilot light for your own peace of mind.


    Just my thoughts!


    ~aaron



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