[pchandler]

The coupling nut that secures the trap to the pipe that goes into the wall is stripped and will not tighten. Photo attached for reference.

What options are there without having to call in a plumber?

Thanks -

Paul

[speedball1]

It's called a compression nut and the fitting the nut's on is called the trap tail. You haven't too many options here. The trap tail will have to be cut and a new compression nut installed. You will then have toi locate a couping that will join the two pieces together. You will need ABS cement, Primer, a compression nut and a coupling to complete this job.
Other wise the only other option would be to cut the stubout back and install a new trap. Good luck, Tom

[pchandler]

Thanks Tom -
Seeing as the current trap tail is metal, is it a problem to fix ABS to the metal with coupling and abs cement, or will it still work OK?

[speedball1]

Ahhh! Then your trap's metal and not ABS as you've shown.
Makes it easier for you. Replace the entire trap, or you could unsolder the trap tail and replace the compression nut but I would replace the entire trap assembly. This is a 20 minute job if you have the tools and the soldering skills. You will need a torch and a #20 tubing cutter. I can walk you through the repair if you wish. Regards, tom

[pchandler]

Yes, that's a generic photo to show the compression nut in question, not meant to portray the actual hardware which is metal.

I don't have a torch or tube cutter and will need them it appears.

[speedball1]

If you want to do the job yourself then click on back after you get a torch, solder and flux and we'll replace that trap together. Regards, Tom

[pchandler]

Hey again -
We got the sink under control, thanks for you advice.
Now have a different problem with the tub (see pic)
Water was leaking into the condo below us but only when we used the shower.
We completely removed and retiled the floor and bath/shower area inside the bathroom.
Still leaked when we used the shower.
Changed the drain and gaset, sealed it up. Still leaked when we used the shower.
We cut an access panel, as you can see, to see if we could determine where the leak was coming from...
Not sure if you can see in the pic or not, but there was NO evidence of water whatsoever anywhere around the tub, on the floor or walls, or from the pipes...
As you can also probably see, someone did apply a bunch of what appears to be plaster of some sort at the base of the tub and floor around the drain area.. and there does appear to be corrosion as well, but cannot see any recent evidence of water from recent shower tests in the last few days.
We are at a loss of what to do... our suspicions lead us to a leak under the flooring, perhaps where the tub drain and overflow meet up with the main drain pipe...

Any ideas here?

[speedball1]

About the only way to locate the leak is to take out a piece of ceiling and check it out. Let me know. Good luck, Tom,

[iamgrowler]

We are at a loss of what to do...our suspicions lead us to a leak under the flooring, perhaps where the tub drain and overflow meet up with the main drain pipe...

From the offset used and the way it was tinned at the overflow outlet, the likely culprit is the tee just below the offset.

The piping material used in waste and overflows is usually 1-1/2" OD (Outside Diameter) or in some rare cases, 1-3/8" OD.

The two copper DWV 45's you see in the photo are intended for use with 1-1/2" ID (Inside Diameter) copper tube.

The two different pipe sizes aren't intended to be used together, so it's likely the connections are merely tinned together, rather than being actually soldered together -- And tightening the shoe of the tub likely weakened or separated the tinned joint that went into the San-Tee.