[fancykat]

Okay, here's my story:
I've always colored my hair myself, but decided to seek professional help for a complicated request. My hair is naturally medium ash blonde. I had been dying it with a semi permanent brown. I wanted to lighten it up a bit and put in some lighter highlights so my natural color would grow in more gracefully. But most importantly, I wanted the red toned out of my hair. I explained this to the recommended colorist.

Unfortunately, the salon lighting made it difficult to see the resulting color. About 4 inches of ends were black with a red tone. The rest was a reddish medium brown. And the highlights were uneven. After a few days, the highlights became more orangey. I was irritated that I finally plunked down a considerable amount of money for this outcome. I went back to the salon. I explained again what the original intention was. The colorist put a touch more highlights at the crown and put some unnamed preparation on the rest of my head and stuck me under a heat lamp. But when I got home to see it in natural light, not much had changed. The ends were still super dark. The rest still reddish, and the highlights gold. I was angry and frustrated, but felt at this point, going back to the same stylist will not achieve my goal.

The problem is, the money I'd put aside to have this done is spent. I cannot afford to find another colorist.

I've experimented a lot with my hair, and it can tolerate a lot. My question is this: I'd like to lighten up the ends and tone it to the desired color. If I do this, would I just lighten the ends a level lighter than the rest of my already dyed head and tone? If I just put in more highlights and used a medium blonde toner all over my head, would it also cut out the redness in the rest of my hair? I realize this is a complex feat. I'm wondering if I'd be better off bleaching the ends and then running it through the rest of my hair to start with a clean state. I assume it would take much longer to lighten the ends. My roots bleach out very fast... and the hair between the ends and roots is probably somewhere in between.

Also, to avoid damage, I'm wondering if I should lighten to an orange, wait a few days and then lighten again.

Essentially, I'd like to lighten all of the hair to at least a light ash brown and eventually add lighter highlights. I assume this would be too complicated to do at once, which is why I am wondering if bleaching the whole head might be better...

Any suggestions? Thanks so much for your response.

[PrettyLady]

You should go back to the salon and ask them fix your hair. Explain to the salon manager that you're not happy with the color results, and he/she will have another hairstylist do a corrective color. They will have to fix your hair free of charge since it's not the color you wanted. Good luck.

[fancykat]

Thanks for the quick reply PrettyLady...
I thought about returning yet again... but when I called after the first appointment, I explained that I'd actually feel more comfortable with someone else to correct the color. The manager told me that I could have it done by the original colorist, but if I were to go to someone else at the salon, then there would be a fee.

It was uncomfortable for me, but agreed. Although I was very nice and apologetic, I felt the colorist was annoyed that she had to "fix" it. So, she didn't. She actually said the second time, "your ends are still dark, but you can use a clarifying shampoo to lighten it up". Agh! But just like the first time, I couldn't tell just how uneven the color was until I got home. The initial appointment was three weeks ago... the "correction" two weeks ago. At this point, I will not get proper color correction from this salon without paying more money.

So, since I have exhausted my options with this salon (which, by the way, I LOVE the haircut but would never recommend the colorist), I am trying to figure out what to do next.

I feel that these are my options, but I need guidance:
1. I can put a toner in, which will most likely darken my hair and not address the super dark ends, but cut out the red tones?

2. I can bleach my whole head and start fresh (but perhaps damaged). If I did bleach my head, I wanted to hear of other experiences, i.e. is it better to do it in stages. First day, bleach, longer time on ends, 3 days later, bleach again, longer time on ends again, 3 days later toner?

3. Add more highlights and tone my whole head medium ash blonde with the hopes that the toner will still cut out the red tones in the rest of my darker hair?

Any suggestions?

[PrettyLady]

Your hair is four different shades of color. If you want to go light ash brown or lighter, you will need to bleach your hair first to remove the current hair color then apply your desired color. You should really consider getting your hair professional done. But if you don't want to go back to the salon, ask a friend or someone who has experience in hair coloring to help you color your hair.

[fancykat]

Thanks PrettyLady. Even though I have years of experience doing my own hair, I haven't bleached it in a very long time. Not sure if I want to attempt a potentially regrettable task, so I will think long and hard before continuing. I realize the value of a strand test, so I wouldn't proceed without one.

How's this for a compromise (with help, of course, from my friend): bleach the ends with a 20 vol. developer to a shade lighter than the rest of my hair, say a level 4. If I can't bring it up to that level the first try, then I will deep condition, wait a few days, and bleach again. Then tone entire head with a combination of ash based toner (say, a level 6 to account for darkening) and 10 vol. developer. The highlights are limited to the top of my head and fringe, very minimal and already exhibiting an orange tint. So, if I do this, I'm thinking there may still be a bit of a shade difference, but less obvious than what I am dealing with now.

I have a couple of other questions...
Say your hair is in good condition. If you process with bleach and bring it past the pale yellow stage, you can have breakage, or worse yet, your hair can melt. Is this only if you get to this stage, or is this true at any point in the bleaching process? From what I understand, the longer the cuticle is blown out, the higher the risk for damage? Of course, if your hair is damaged anyway, the point is moot.

Also, I have heard of a hair color technique called blurring. Have you heard of this, and how is it achieved?

[PrettyLady]

When you bleach your hair it goes through several stages of lightening from the darkest to the lightest. Hair can be bleached out to the palest yellow, but don't bleach your hair past the yellow stage because you will over-process or damage your hair. You will need to mix the bleach packet with the liquid developer to make a creamy paste. I recommend using a 20 volume peroxide developer with your bleach packet. You will find these at a beauty supply store. When the shade of your hair is the lightness you desire, wash your hair to remove all of the bleach. Once you've reached your desired lightness and your hair is one even color, you may apply your selected hair color. Then shampoo and condition your hair as usual. Make sure to do a deep conditioning treatment at least once a week to restore moisture and make your hair look healthy.

[fancykat]

PrettyLady:
Just wanted to let you know that I've done my self-correction... which, by the way, I do not recommend folks to do this... but I knew I was taking a risk and was willing to endure the consequences.

I am pleased with the result. I lifted my color (with the bleach packet and 20 vol. developer) to about an orangy-gold (didn't want to tempt fate and push it). The lengths and ends processed for about 40 minutes, and the roots took an additional 10 minutes. I then rinsed very well, lightly shampooed and deep conditioned using a plastic cap. Just to play it safe, I waited a couple of days to color, but I probably could have done it the same day.

I used a semi permanent (clairol complements, light ash brown). It was a bit complicated, because I didn't want to disturb the salon highlights, if only for the reason that they cost a fortune. Since they were mostly around my face, it was fairly simple to divide my hair accordingly. This also left out the darker parts in the front, but I will deal with that another time.

So the lightened result still has some warmth, but that's okay, because the untouched portion in the front is warm - so it blends pretty well. I plan to add heavier highlights to this front area at another time.

So thank you for your suggestions and advice. It certainly would have been preferable to have it fixed professionally, but in my empty-pocketed desperation, my efforts paid off.

[PrettyLady]

You're welcome, sweetie. ;)