[jseivers]

I have a 1998 Honda Accord LX 2.3L with 165,000 miles on it. Over the last few months, it has started shutting off while driving. Sometimes it happens when I pull up to a stop sign or stop light and other times I can be driving down the highway and it shut off. I checked with dealership and they did the recall on the ignition switch and it seemed to be OK for a week or two, but went back to doing it. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor button.

Sometimes, after it shuts off, I can turn the key just a hair forward and the engine will start back without having to turn it over... and sometimes this does not work. I know that when Honda does the recall fix, it only includes the electrical portion of the ignition and does not do the entire chamber that holds the key... which I believe would force me to have a new key set made ?

I also noticed that it seemed to only happen on hotter days or after I have been driving a lot and almost never in the mornings, however this morning it was 60-65 degrees outside and it started doing it after I dropped off my kids at school and did it several times before I got to work.

I need to get this problem fixed asap because I do not want it happening when taking the kids to school. I try to keep down costs and do as much repair work myself as I can, but do I just need to bite the bullet and take it somewhere that may have more sophisticated tools to determine what the actual problem is ?

If I am leaving out any important information, just let me know and I will reply as quickly as possible.

Thanks in advance !

[TxGreaseMonkey]

You are experiencing a common problem with older Hondas. Replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil, located inside the distributor, should solve the problem. Be sure to apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM, otherwise it will not last long. I recommend replacing these problematic components every 125,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

Use a precision tip #2 Philips Head screwdriver and remove the coil before removing the ICM--this improves access to the ICM.

[jseivers]

I noticed this ICM fix on a few other threads, and this is why I tried to add as much detail to my description. Are you close to 100% certain that this is the problem ? Also, I saw an entire distributor on eBay at this link - http://www.ebay.com/itm/330687201496?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageNa me=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Price is $85... Should I just go for the entire distributor ?

I looked at autozone site and the ICM is $124... but I looked at Rock Auto and found them for about $60... and some on eBay are $15-20.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I'm close to 100% certain this is your problem. Don't buy an aftermarket distributor--they are all junk. You want to only use a genuine Honda distributor housing, which I assume you have, and install an aftermarket ICM and coil. This will keep the cost down and we have not had any problems with aftermarket ICMs and coils. Aftermarket distributors, however, have been a major headache. Any well-known manufacturer of ICMs and coils should be fine. Rockauto.com and eBay are good choices--just make sure you order the correct part. You may want to get the part numbers off the old components first, to ensure you get the right parts for your particular distributor.

[jseivers]

Thank you very much... I will try this solution.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Let us know the results.

[jseivers]

I took off dist cap yesterday and got both part numbers and ordered exact replacements. At local auto zone, parts were going to be $200 for both. Got brand new off eBay for both at $85. They should be here by Thursday or Friday and I will install no later than Saturday.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Great. Nice prices. This is the ideal time to replace the rotor and distributor cap, if they have not been replaced in 60,000 miles. High resistance in these components often turns the high voltage on the ICM and coil.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Make sure the old connectors are clean and tight. Clean them with abrasive cloth and crimp with pliers, if necessary.

[jseivers]

So I did the swap last night. Everything went as you described... took 20 minutes. I fired up the car afterwards and let it idle until warm and it was good. I jumped in the car and headed down the road and got maybe a quarter mile and it cut off. Same as before. One thing I noticed this time that I had not in the past was when I put the key in and turned it to the on position (before actually cranking it), none of the dash lights came on. I turned it a hair more beyond where it typically clicks in and the lights came on. All I had to do is move the key back another hair to make the lights come on. I am pretty sure in the past when everything was working, when I got to the on position, the dash lights would come on.

So this brings me to my next question. I have had the recall done where they replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch. Could the mechanical part that the key goes in cause this issue of cutting off ?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Have you checked for codes? Try removing the key from the ignition and spraying WD-40 inside. If you have another key, try it. Excess wear can develop in the key lock, especially if you have too many keys and other stuff on your key ring; therefore, try just the ignition key by itself. If the problem persists, I would focus on the ignition lock mechanism.

[jseivers]

I have not checked for codes on this occasion, but I have throughout this ordeal and nothing showed up in the ECU. I will try the WD-40. One other question... does the mechanical portion of the switch come with the immobilizer or is that part of the electrical portion that Honda replaced ?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Immobilizer is part of the ECM.

[jseivers]

I have replaced the ignition lock cylinder with a new Standard Products US520. Lights are acting normal when clicked into each position. Now my next question... how the heck do I get my car to recognize the new key that came with the unit? Dealership is out of the question... I have come too far to succumb to that.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Call a locksmith, explain the situation, and see if he can help you use your old key.

[jseivers]

I found a way to make it work today. Just some ventures onto YouTube helped. So far, the car has not cut off. I am hoping this has solved it. I will continue to monitor and let you know if anything changes. I really appreciate your help with this matter. If you are ever up in NC, drop me a line and I can buy you a beer or soda.

Thanks,

[TxGreaseMonkey]

How did you do it? Could you post the YouTube link?

Your Honda should be reliable now.