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rob54059 · Oct 7, 2013, 04:58 PM

The hot water system squeals when a tap is turned on. Operating the over pressure device (on the inlet side which drains water to waste) cures it for between 1 and 12 hours.

crashinnola · Oct 9, 2013, 01:25 PM

Air is getting trapped in the pipe and when you open the pressure relief valve you decrease the pressure. Easy fix lower the temp on water heater. The other way is to install an expansion chamber in the line which is nothing more than a vertical pipe installed in the line near the tub or sink but best if put at the highest point on the system.

hkstroud · Oct 9, 2013, 01:29 PM

Does this occur at all faucets or at just one or some?

massplumber2008 · Oct 9, 2013, 03:43 PM

Hi Rob

I am sure chrashinnola means well and his/her advice sounds reasonable, but simply put, it is not correct!

Please answer Hkstroud's question and then tell me if this is a new issue or has it been happening for awhile? Also, has any plumbing work been done recently?

Back to you...

Mark

rob54059 · Oct 10, 2013, 04:56 PM

Originally Posted by massplumber2008

Hi Rob

I am sure chrashinnola means well and his/her advice sounds reasonable, but simply put, it is not correct!

Please answer Hkstroud's question and then tell me if this is a new issue or has it been happening for awhile? Also, has any plumbing work been done recently?

Back to you...

Mark

Hi All,
The HW system was fitted last year but has been good until last week. It only squealed when 2 of the 5 HW taps were operated. After trying everything else I was about to fit an anti-hammer device but decided to try turning the cold inlet tap to the HW system down as much as possible while still having enough flow to have a good shower. Hey Presto, all fixed and the neighbours in other units have stopped complaining. I guess it must have been the inlet valve vibrating somehow. Thanks for your help.
Rob

hkstroud · Oct 10, 2013, 06:14 PM

To me that says that you have a loose washer in the water heater stop valve. You may be able to dissemble the valve and replace the washer. Probably easier to replace the valve.
Assuming you have copper pipe that requires you to be able to solder pipe. If you don't solder, measure the distance between the two places you would have to cut to remove the valve. Stop by Home Depot or the hardware store and measure the length of a Sharkebite stop valve. You may be able to simply cut out the old valve and replace it with a Sharkbite valve.
Otherwise show a picture of pipe for suggestions.

rob54059 · Nov 27, 2013, 07:47 PM

Originally Posted by hkstroud

To me that says that you have a loose washer in the water heater stop valve. You may be able to dissemble the valve and replace the washer. Probably easier to replace the valve.
Assuming you have copper pipe that requires you to be able to solder pipe. If you don't solder, measure the distance between the two places you would have to cut to remove the valve. Stop by Home Depot or the hardware store and measure the length of a Sharkebite stop valve. You may be able to simply cut out the old valve and replace it with a Sharkbite valve.
Otherwise show a picture of pipe for suggestions.

Thanks for that. The tap can be removed without cutting or soldering so I guess I will just remove it and put a new one in. At the moment there are more pressing items to attend to such as sliding doors etc so it may be a while before I get around to it. I don't mind repairing or replacing stuff as long as it's not a big drama!
Cheers
Rob