[skiddmarkk]

Hello there,
I have a 1990 honda civic, 1.5L that is running very rough, but more not running at all.
-For the past week or 2, it has been starting and then about a second later dying. -Does this about 2 or 3 times before I start it (starts and then dies), and then it just idles fine after the 2nd or 3rd time.
-Driving wise, has been fine, nothing noticeably different.
-Since yesterday when trying to start it, the car just dies immediately. And when I get it to run, I have to keep giving it gas or else it just dies. Sounds horrible, like a tank, or its running on 3 cylinders and the timing is off. The check engine light flickers on and off while throttling the car like a strobe light.
-The weirdest part is I kept it going for about 15-20 seconds by throttling it so it didn't die, and then it just stopped and idled perfectly fine. Then about 30 seconds later while I was looking under the hood to for any leaks it just died.
Before I start doing anything, was wondering if anyone has any ideas on what it could be?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'll be monitoring this like a hawk.

Thank you for your time,

Austin

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. Check for codes.

. Verify that the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II). If so, then focus on the distributor. Usually, replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil solves the problem. Be sure to apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM. If this solves the problem, replace the rotor and distributor cap if they have not been changed in 60,000 miles. High resistance in these two components often causes the ICM to fail.

[skiddmarkk]

I replaced the distributor about 2 months ago. And the CEL comes on when the ignition is in the ON position, and then shuts off once the fuel pump is running (about 2 seconds).

The engine light flickers on and off only once the car is running (when I throttle it)

[TxGreaseMonkey]

The problem may still be with the distributor, if you bought an aftermarket distributor. I only recommend genuine Honda distributor housings, where it's fine to install and aftermarket ICM and coil to keep the cost down. Aftermarket distributors for Hondas have been a perpetual problem on this site. They cannot get the internal sensors right (CKP, TDC, and CYL).

[skiddmarkk]

I did have an issue with this distributor already, the 2 prongs going into the cam shaft completely sheared off. So I took the old distributor's prongs and put it on the new one. Worked completely fine.

It wouldn't phase me if there was problems with it again. I'll check that out first.


OK so just went outside to see if the same problems persist, and now the car won't start.

The check engine light stays on while the key is in the ON position, and now the radiator fans are starting up with the car. (40 degree weather and they aren't belt driven so they should turn on through the temp sensor). None of this has ever happened to me before, the really weird symptoms, but its making me lean towards an electrical problem / distributor failing.

Any thoughts?

Thank you so much for your help so far

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Since the CEL is staying on, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), check for codes and perform the K-Test on the ECM:

Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.