[droberson4]

I am building some rooms over my patio and plan on using an I Beam for the header to hold it up. I will be buying two I beams 32 feet long. The max distance between vertical posts will be 16 ft. The are five vertical posts; one every 16 ft. I want to use a ten inch tall beam either 8 inch wide or ten inch wide. The problem is I do not know which weight to get per ft. for the I Beam to get.

Above the patio will be two normal bedrooms plus a master bedroom extension. The walls for the bedrooms will be 9 ft tall. The floor will be 2x10's; 16 inch on center with 3/4 inch plywood floor. The ceiling 2x8's and the roof 2x6's with 3/4 inch ply wood. The walls will be 2x6 with 3/4 inch plywood nailed to it.

The whole addition above the patio is about 64ft long x 12 wide.

The only thing I need help with is the size of Header I beam to use. On the patio to hold it all up. The house will hold up the other end.

Any help will be most apprecitaed.

Thanks

Darryl Roberson

[ballengerb1]

I know that this is not an answer but it may help you in the right direction. It is almost 100% a sure thing you will need a permit. Most building department will specify specs in their code or require that you show a certifed architect has done your drawing and says that he is using the right beams.

[Lowtax4eva]

Just wanting to add, I'm sure you know, building without a permit may void your homeowners insurance if something happens. I would suggest getting an architect to decide on the main I beam size.

If your really not going to, use a steel beam, it's probably more than you need

[Kstar4u]

I like your initiative! If you want to do it right... and it's a pretty significant improvement in equity... Please consider this:
1. I don't know where you're located but I'm sure that a building permit is required and as a result, engineering calculations for the project will be required for the building permit (wind and snow load, etc.)
2. I would recommend your considering another change in the design specs. Too
for the floor joists... use 2X12 @12" OC and 3/4" T&G sub-flooring (1" if you expect to tile the upstairs floors).

Your engineer or architect will do all of the calcs (it's always seemed like a "racket" to me but most city or county building departments require a LICENSED engineer or architect's stamp on the calcs before they'll approve it.).

If you don't pull a permit:

1) You'll probably have to disclose the fact that it was an "unpermitted addition" when and if you sell the property (which may... or may not effect your investment in the equity there)
2) God Forbid... should you have a fire or something... if it's un-permitted your homeowner's insurance won't pay to replace it
3) but... on the other hand... you'll probably get a revised bill from your local tax assessor's office increasing you property taxes before you even finish building it!
4) HOMEOWNER's CHOICE!! (you're supposed to pull a permit, though. If you decide not to... be sure to photograph the concrete footings with a tape measure in the photo before you pour the concrete!! That might save you a whole lot of $$$$$ if you do pull a permit retroactively.

[ballengerb1]

You certainly can do the work but I agree with many of the other posts. As I originally stated the permit is the proper way to go but you'll make your own decision. I my neck of the woods, if this is your primary residence, the permit will postpone your tax increase for 5 years but it guarantee it will eventually come. I did a shed for a guy without a permit. Once finished an inspector came to the home and said we were 2 feet to close to the back lot line. We had to move it or tear it down, luckily for this project we slid it with a tractor. Had it been on footings we would have been stuck.