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TKRoadshow1 · Apr 1, 2007, 11:38 PM

Hello,

I have recently been noticing a surge in my water pressure, and when the water is running my lights blink faintly. The lights dim slightly when the ac kicks on, however I don't think they are the same problem. I have a well located about 1500 feet or less behind my house and a bladder tank on the back of my house. If I run the washer or shower I notice a frequent clicking (clicks once per second) sound coming from my water tank. I am wondering if my well pump is gong bad or if something is wrong with the tank. The pump has its own electrical box, that was installed less than 5 years ago. Any Ideas? Thanks for any help.

Tony

labman · Apr 2, 2007, 04:01 AM

I think you have 2 problems, the pump is cutting on and off rapidly, and an electrical problem. I am going let the plumbers confirm the bladder is shot and you have lost the air out of the tank, and suggest the top man we have in electrical looks at the problem.

speedball1 · Apr 2, 2007, 05:20 AM

Sounds like the membrane might have ruptured in your bladder tank and now your pump is cycling.
Let me explain the function of a bladder tank. Pressure and bladder tanks provide a air cushion that produces water pressure in your system so your pump doesn't kick on every time you draw a glass of water. A bladder tank has a neoprene membrane in the center. As the pump puts water into the bottom half of the bladder tank the membrane compresses the air in the top half. When the pressure reaches the cut off point in the control box the pump shuts down. However you still have between 40 to 50 pounds of pressure pushing the water out to your system. As the pressure drops in the tank when you make a draw the pump kicks on and everything starts over again.
To check, take something metal and start rapping at the bottom of the tank and work upwards. You will hear a "clunk" in the bottom half full of water. On the upper half you should hear a "clink" because the upper half should have nothing but air in it. IF the sound doesn't change or changes close to to tank top then the bladder tank must be replaced. Your air setting on the tank should be 2 pounds UNDER the cut in point in the pressure control box. If your pressure control has a 20 PSI cut in and 40 PSI cut out the tank pressure should read 18 PSI. This should be done with the pump off and no pressure in the system. Let me know what you find and then I'll move this over to the electrical expert. Hope this helps and thank you for rating my reply. Tom

TKRoadshow1 · Apr 2, 2007, 01:45 PM

Well, the clunk is the same at the top as it is in the bottom. I don't know how to read the cut in and out, however the cover says that its 30/50 and my pressure gage with no water running reads 40. A couple of months ago I had un unexplained drop in water pressure. I thought the bladder might have ruptured but then the pressure seemed to return. I think you are right, I think the bladder may be bad.

tkrussell · Apr 2, 2007, 03:49 PM

First with the motor being so far, the motor may be straining due to low voltage at the motor, thus causing the starting current to be higher than normal. This not only kills the motor's life, the low voltage "ripples" through the system, and incandescent lamps are good visual detectors of low voltage.

Checking all connections through out the system may help but , at this distance, the cost of two transformers will add substantial life to the motor.

If I had the HP and code letter or LRA of the motor I could size them for you.

speedball1 · Apr 3, 2007, 07:44 AM

"Well, the clunk is the same at the top as it is in the bottom." You have a bad bladder tank and it should be replaced. Your cut in pressure's 30 PSI and it cuts out at 50 PSI. This means that when you adjust the new bladder tank the bladder tank pressure should be set at 2 PSI under the cut in point on the pump control. In your case 28 pounds . The bladder tank adjustment must be made with the pump shut off and the pressure drained down.
TK Russell's advice was sound. Not to wander into TKs territory but could a under sized electrical supply line be the cause of the voltage drop? Just wondering. Tom

tkrussell · Apr 3, 2007, 01:43 PM

I do believe the 1500 foot feeder is a huge reason, and this would be the one wire too small. Any electrical system can have a feeder service cable too small, or the popular loose or corroded connections, definitely worth mentioning.

If this is rural, this is popular for the utility having too small wire at times.

If the system has age, and is subjected to inclement weather often, best to have the system check for poor connections, including the utility equipment.