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harum · Jul 18, 2013, 09:31 PM

Hello, I am trying to decide how to finish the floor after 80 grit drum sanding. Do I have to sand further with 100 or 120? And shoud I apply wood sealer before coating with finish. And should this finish be water-based, oil-based, acid cured? What would be a reasonable coat for a house in terms of durability, moisture resistance and ease of maintenance? Would greatly appreciate any reference. Thanks!

ma0641 · Jul 19, 2013, 11:01 AM

80 is too rough as a final finish. I personally would do a 120 or 150 as a final. You can use any number of finishes but I do not use water based polyurethane on a floor because it doesn't give a warm look to the finish. You can use tung oil too, a couple of coats using a lambs wool applicator. Minwax satin finish floor poly is my favorite. Whatever you choose, make sue to vacuum and vacuum and tack cloth or you will have a gritty finish.

harum · Jul 19, 2013, 07:43 PM

Thanks again. I had planned to buff the surface with 100 or 120 grit as a final before application of finish. After some research, I too lean towards oil-based poly. I guess I can sand manually with a mesh on a pole between coats. A buffer would be better but don't want renting it for a few days to use only once a day, because of long drying times for oil-based polys.

How many gallons of Minwax finish floor poly would be enough for three-four coats for a thousand sq.ft. Should the first coat be a 1:1 dilution of the poly finish with oil?

Greatly appreciate your help.

ma0641 · Jul 19, 2013, 08:01 PM

3or 4 coats is a lot. Most finishing companies do 2, a thinned first and a full second. I would guess 5 gallons with a 1:1 or 2:1 mineral spirit thin. You can apply the base with a roller or brush. I prefer a lambs wool applicator. From all your posts, you are going to be busy and hope we have helped.

harum · Jul 22, 2013, 08:42 PM

Well, have found tonight that Home Depot and Lowe's have stopped carrying oil-based floor polys. Which means I will have to use oil-modified water-based finish. What I don't understand is if I should wear anything special when walking on the first coat to prepare for a second coat? Will it be hard enough to not let any prints during sanding and cleaning, which most probably will be necessary?

ma0641 · Jul 22, 2013, 08:53 PM

Originally Posted by harum

Well, have found tonight that Home Depot and Lowe's have stopped carrying oil-based floor polys. Which means I will have to use oil-modified water-based finish. What I don't understand is if I should wear anything special when walking on the first coat to prepare for a second coat? Will it be hard enough to not let any prints during sanding and cleaning, which most probably will be necessary?

Minwax still shows oil based poly as a product. Does you local air board not allow oil based? Check with Ace or Sherwin Williams.

harum · Jul 23, 2013, 03:14 PM

Originally Posted by ma0641

Minwax still shows oil based poly as a product. Does you local air board not allow oil based? Check with Ace or Sherwin Williams.

No, they say no more oil-based poly from the stores, including SW. No more than VOC 275 per can. Oil-modified satin it is then. It gives a slight yellowish tint.

harum · Jul 23, 2013, 03:19 PM

I have another question about floor sanding. Are rotary and square buffers interchangeable? Even though both buffers are available for rent, the shop only offers grit 120 and 220 screens for the square buffer. I will have to light sand between coats of poly. Not sure if it is doable (in terms of time) with a pole sander. Thanks, h.