[marc-a]

Hi there, I am replacing my old tiles with a tub surround. All of the previous drywall is gone except for a few feet from the ceiling. Remaining area has the studs and sub-floor. Do I need to place drywall and green board first before putting the tub and surround? Is this a good practice or no need.

[mygirlsdad77]

No drywall or green board behind the acrylic tub or surround. You will set the tub and surround directly to the rough studs, then sheet rock/green board up to the tub and surround. This is the correct way to do it. If you have a five foot tub/shower, you will want 5' 1/4" rough opening for the tub/shower. This extra 1/4 inch will give you an 1/8 on both sides to get the tub in there. Trust me, with out the extra 1/4 inch they can be a real bear to get in place.

[marc-a]

Thank you good to know... and how do you recommend to finish the top and sides of the surround. I assume the existing drywall from the ceiling down will overlap or bud against the surround tops... do I put tile or just a molding of some sort between the surround and the drywall that is there from the 80`` to the ceiling.

[mygirlsdad77]

As far as finishing, its really personal preference. I have seen it done several ways. Most times they will sheetrock right over the flange up to the actuall base of the surround. This, of course, leaves a bit of a bow in the rock at the shower surround, but it isn't all that noticeable unless you are looking for it. I have also seen where they will rock right up to the flange, then mud in the gap between the flange and the base. This, to me, seems like an aweful large area of mud, I would think it would be prone to cracking over time. One other way I have seen it done (have had contractors ask me to install this way) is to do the rough wall at 1/4 short of five foot, then notch the studs for the tub/shower to fit in with the flange flush with the rough studs. In this way, you can rock right over the flange with no bowing of the rock. After all taping, painting, etc is done they use a water proof silicone, color matched to either the tub, or paint (your choice) to seal the rock to the tub/shower surround. I prefer the silicone seal versus mudding seal, as the mud will eventually break loose from the surround leaving a crack the entire length of the surround, in which case you just have to silicone it anyway.

I say stick with the 5' 1/4" opening, install tub/shower, rock over the flange, use silicone for finish between rock and tub/shower base, and as long as the walls are plumb, and the tub is level and set correctly in a bed of mortor or equivalent according to install instructions you will have a great end product.

Good luck on your project, and if you get a chance, post some pics of your progress.

Lee.

[massplumber2008]

I didn't read the whole thread here, but I'm not sure Marc-a is talking about the kind of tub surround you are talking about, Lee (mygirldad77).

If Marc-a is talking about a tub surround that is about an 1.25" thick with a nailing flange all around it then drywall is only needed to finish the job after the surround is installed.

If, on the other hand, Marc-a is talking about a tub surround that is only about 1/8" thick and has no nailing flange and is ADHERED to the wall with a surround wall caulking then he MUST install a mold-resistant wall board prior to installing the surround.

Glad to discuss more if needed...

Mark

[marc-a]

Thanks Lee. I will likely silicone around from the scored drywall to the surround all around. Will take a few weeks working on this... sure will post pics. Marc

As far as finishing, its really personal preference. I have seen it done several ways. Most times they will sheetrock right over the flange up to the actuall base of the surround. This, of course, leaves a bit of a bow in the rock at the shower surround, but it isnt all that noticeable unless you are looking for it. I have also seen where they will rock right up to the flange, then mud in the gap between the flange and the base. This, to me, seems like an aweful large area of mud, I would think it would be prone to cracking over time. One other way I have seen it done (have had contractors ask me to install this way) is to do the rough wall at 1/4 short of five foot, then notch the studs for the tub/shower to fit in with the flange flush with the rough studs. In this way, you can rock right over the flange with no bowing of the rock. After all taping, painting, etc is done they use a water proof silicone, color matched to either the tub, or paint (your choice) to seal the rock to the tub/shower surround. I prefer the silicone seal versus mudding seal, as the mud will eventually break loose from the surround leaving a crack the entire length of the surround, in which case you just have to silicone it anyways.

I say stick with the 5' 1/4" opening, install tub/shower, rock over the flange, use silicone for finish between rock and tub/shower base, and as long as the walls are plumb, and the tub is level and set correctly in a bed of mortor or equivalent according to install instructions you will have a great end product.

Good luck on your project, and if you get a chance, post some pics of your progress.

Lee.

[mygirlsdad77]

Hi again marc-a. Better go back and read post #5. I was assuming you were going to install a new tub/shower kit with the 1 1/4-1 1/2 "thick" surround. If you are indeed using the thin 1/8 inch that gets caulked to the wall, then most all of my info is off. Please clarify on this if you get the chance.


Mark (massplumber), good catch. I was thinking too much along the lines of a Sterling acrylic unit. Not a huge fan of the caulked on surround, but to each his own.

Lee.

[marc-a]

To be clear, the model is a Mirolin Tub and shower kit. (60 x 32.5 x 80) The flange all around is 1/8 thick and 3/4 inch "high"... it appears that I drill directly onto the studs. Only drywall would be at the top of the wall after the 80 inch eight to the ceiling. No drywall behind the tub and surround walls. Correct? Sorry, but this is confusing to me... and the instructions were not that all clear.

[joypulv]

3/4" surface on the flange? I'm pretty sure they want to know how far out from the wall the surround is. How thick it is including air behind it.

[marc-a]

Well the panels are 1 inch "wide" from front to back. Acrylic. Not sure this is helpful. Marc

[mygirlsdad77]

Okay marc-a. Pretty much what I had envisioned. Stick with my first advice and you should be good to go. As Mark-massplumber said, in this case you don't need greenboard, just normal sheetrock to finish around the surround. However, if for the little extra is cost for the green board, I would opt for it at least directly around the surround. Getting the tub and walls plumb/level with correct bedding under the tub is key here. Once you get that done, the rest should go pretty smoothly.

Take care.

Lee.

[marc-a]

Excelllent and thanks everyone. The tub itself has solid leg bases all around the bottom of the tub... so good there. I like the idea of green board all around the edges... with finishing silicon. Will keep you posted on progress and final pics. Marc

[massplumber2008]

I wouldn't use greenboard or normal sheetrock here... I'd use the newer "paperless" mold-resistant wall board. This stuff is supposed to be better in wet areas like bathrooms!

Here is a video on the subject:



The stuff is widely available (under different brand name, but all are "paperless").


Good luck!

[mygirlsdad77]

Interesting stuff for sure, Mark. What's the cost difference? This is the first I have heard of this product. Thanks for the video.

Lee.