[violet0019]

Can anyone explain to me (in layman's terms as I am not familiar with plumbing lingo) the reason why my toilet has a dripping noise coming from it 24 hours a day? Also, I am not sure if there is any relation with regards to this... it has such a weak flush, I am always afraid someone will block it up when using it... HELP? Thanks.:confused:

[doug238]

Peek inside the overflow. If the fill tube is too far [ below the water level] it will syphon the tank. The water level should be 1/4" below the overflow and the flapper should allow enough water to escape to give a deep vortex and a strong evacuation of the bowl.

[violet0019]

peek inside the overflow. if the fill tube is too far [ below the water level] it will syphon the tank. the water level should be 1/4" below the overflow and the flapper should allow enough water to escape to give a deep vortex and a strong evacuation of the bowl.

Thank you for this explanation. Although your "lingo" is a totally foreign language to me, I did peek and did see "a tube", which I am assuming is the "fill tube". The water level seems to be OK, so now I would like to ask about the flapper... how would I know if the flapper is NOT allowing enough water to escape... hmmmm? Also, are there any very very simple diagrams illustrating all of this that you might recommend? Thanks
:confused:

[speedball1]

Sounds like your flapper linkage needs adjusting, but first let's check it to be sure the problem's with adjustments and not the flapper itself.
Take your finger and run it around the flat part of the flapper. If it's wavy then it must be replaced. If the flapper's OK we'll move on to adjusting it. I could put up a picture of the innards of a toilet tank but it would be the same as looking in your oun so let's grt on with adjusting the flapper.
With the flapper seated the linkage wants to have 1/4" of play. Too much play and the flapper doesn't get pulled back enough giving you a short flush. Too tight and it lets water seep past the flapper, (that might be what's happening here). I adjust the chain by the link and if it needs fine tuning, I bend the flush lever rod a bit untill I have the desired play in the linkage. One more thing about a flapper. you will see where the old flapper hooks onto the base of the white overflow tube. On a older type with no hooks the flapper has a ring that slips down over the overflow tube to the seat. If your tank has hooks, take a sharp knife or scissors and cut the neoprene ring off on the marks provided and hook the flapper on the hooks. Leaving the ring on will interfere with the flush. The water level in your tank should be 3/8 to 1/2" below the top of the overflow tube when the tank's filled. Now let's address the "slow flush".
I have one that most repair plumbers miss.. Look down at the bottom of the bowl. If there is a small hole, then that is a jet that starts the syphon action. If it's clogged the water will just swirl around and slowly go down leaving solids behind. Take your finger,(UGH! ) and run it around the inside of the opening. Over the years minerals build up and cut down on the syphon (flush) action. If it is rough or you feel build up, take a table knife and put a bend in it to get around the curve in the bowl and chip and scrap it clear. Next take a coathanger and clear out the holes around the rim. They start the swirling action. And last, check the water level in the tank. It should be 1/2" below the top of the over flow tube. And speaking of the overflow tube, Make sure the small 1/8" tube from the ballcock to the white overflow tube is connected so it discharges in it and that it's flowing when the ballcock fills. This is what raises the water level in the bowl. For a good solid flush they all have to work together. Hope this helps . Tom

[doug238]

A low flow flapper drops too quickly and does not allow enough water to escape and stunts the flush.