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    smithlu's Avatar
    smithlu Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Apr 9, 2013, 09:30 AM
    No hot water pressure
    I am getting no water pressure from any hot water valves in my house. The hot water tank works fine, I drained it completely the water ran clear. I refilled it but it seems to refill extremely slow unless I have the basement sink tap on, this also gives the hot water faucets a flow, but of cold water. I left all hot water taps on while I refilled the tank, does anyone have a solution to this?
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #2

    Apr 9, 2013, 09:49 AM
    Do you have heat trap nipples on the water heater?
    smithlu's Avatar
    smithlu Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Apr 9, 2013, 10:00 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by hkstroud View Post
    Do you have heat trap nipples on the water heater?

    It doesn't look like it, the piping goes right into the tank.
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    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #4

    Apr 9, 2013, 10:10 AM
    Hard to tell sometimes.
    Assuming you have heat sink nipples and that the little ball in the hot nipple is stuck closed. Also assuming you have a clothes washer. A temporary measure to restore hot water until nipples can be replaced.

    Connect hose to heater drain valve and close cold water input valve. Open drain valve.

    Disconnect clothes washer hoses. Use one hose to connect the cold valve to hot valve. Close all other faucets. Open cold and hot clothes washer valves. This will force cold water through the hot water lines back to water heater. Unsticking little ball in the hot heat sink nipple. Let water run for a few minutes until it comes out the drain with force.

    PS
    What you described is draining the water heater. What you want to do is flush the water heater. To do that you open the drain valve but leave the cold water input valve open, letting the force of the incoming water flush out any sediment or debris in the bottom of the water heater.
    smithlu's Avatar
    smithlu Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Apr 9, 2013, 10:38 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by hkstroud View Post
    Hard to tell sometimes.
    Assuming you have heat sink nipples and that the little ball in the hot nipple is stuck closed. Also assuming you have a clothes washer. A temporary measure to restore hot water until nipples can be replaced.

    Connect hose to heater drain valve and close cold water input valve. Open drain valve.

    Disconnect clothes washer hoses. Use one hose to connect the cold valve to hot valve. Close all other faucets. Open cold and hot clothes washer valves. This will force cold water through the hot water lines back to water heater. Unsticking little ball in the hot heat sink nipple. Let water run for a few minutes until it comes out the drain with force.

    PS
    What you described is draining the water heater. What you want to do is flush the water heater. To do that you open the drain valve but leave the cold water input valve open, letting the force of the incoming water flush out any sediment or debris in the bottom of the water heater.
    Ah thank you very much, I just did what you said and got a strong flow draining out, now should I let the tank refill and see if it works?
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #6

    Apr 9, 2013, 10:54 AM
    Yes, close the drain and open the cold water input valve. Have to wait a little while for water to heat but you should have good flow out of any hot faucet.
    smithlu's Avatar
    smithlu Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Apr 9, 2013, 11:02 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by hkstroud View Post
    Yes, close the drain and open the cold water input valve. Have to wait a little while for water to heat.
    OK I closed the drain and opened the water back up, I get a sputter of air out of my hot faucets but then they soon die out, the tank seems to still be filling very slowly.
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #8

    Apr 9, 2013, 11:14 AM
    Wait for tank to fill. Cold water nipple may also be sticking if tank takes to long to fill. Bang on pipe close to water heater to see if that helps to break loose sticking ball in cold water line.
    smithlu's Avatar
    smithlu Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Apr 9, 2013, 12:00 PM
    The tank is full, but I still get no pressure to any of the hot taps, this stumps me. Should I be replacing the nipples?
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #10

    Apr 9, 2013, 12:03 PM
    Yes, apparently the build up of mineral deposits has screw up their operation completely.
    What are you skills, what tools do you have, can you show a picture of the piping?
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #11

    Apr 9, 2013, 12:12 PM
    Hi guys

    As much as I agree that the nipples could be the issue here I would also suggest that you consider installing a new cold water shut off to the water heater... being sure to remove the old shut off.

    In fact, if possible, before replacing the nipples, I would try to disassemble the cold water shutoff... maybe do away with the guts/washer and see if pressure improved.

    That's my thoughts...

    Mark
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    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #12

    Apr 9, 2013, 12:20 PM
    Hi Mark,

    Agree that something smithlu could (should) try, just in case the valve has become clogged.
    (Wish I had thought of that)

    smithlu,
    When opening the stop valve, did it feel right, or did the handle turn too easily.
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    smithlu Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    Apr 9, 2013, 12:31 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by hkstroud View Post
    Yes, apparently the build up of mineral deposits has screw up their operation completely.
    What are you skills, what tools do you have, can you show a picture of the piping?
    I am handy, and have fixed plumbing before, but everything I know about water heaters I have learned on the internet over the last day, my tool collection is not huge, if I need anything fancier than a wrench I probably won't have it. Here is an image, I have lived here 4 years and have never flushed it before.
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #14

    Apr 9, 2013, 12:38 PM
    Where is pic?
    Click on "Go Advance" button scroll down, click on "Manage Attachments" browse to find pic, Open, click on Upload. Pic should be in JPEG format.
    smithlu's Avatar
    smithlu Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #15

    Apr 9, 2013, 12:42 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by hkstroud View Post
    Hi Mark,

    Agree that something smithlu could (should) try, just in case the valve has become clogged.
    (Wish I had thought of that)

    smithlu,
    When opening the stop valve, did it feel right, or did the handle turn too easily.
    It actually took a lot for me to turn it at first but now it turns pretty easily, I could start by checking this out, it seems pretty old to me and not in the best condition, but the tank definitely has a good amount of water in it, so shouldn't I still be getting pressure?
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    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #16

    Apr 9, 2013, 12:46 PM
    Yes, should have pressure but may not have volume. Does the handle ever stop turning when opening? If you have a gate valve, the handle and gate may have come apart and you are not really opening the valve.
    smithlu's Avatar
    smithlu Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #17

    Apr 9, 2013, 12:46 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by massplumber2008 View Post
    Hi guys

    As much as I agree that the nipples could be the issue here I would also suggest that you consider installing a new cold water shut off to the water heater...being sure to remove the old shut off.

    In fact, if possible, before replacing the nipples, I would try to disassemble the cold water shutoff...maybe do away with the guts/washer and see if pressure improved.

    That's my thoughts...

    Mark
    Thanks mark I will give this a try, there definitely seems to be a problem with the cold water flow into the tank. Also the water stopped suddenly yesterday after a tenant did a hot load of laundry, I don't know if this information helps diagnose the problem at all.
    smithlu's Avatar
    smithlu Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #18

    Apr 9, 2013, 12:52 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by hkstroud View Post
    Yes, should have pressure but may not have volume. Does the handle ever stop turning when opening? If you have a gate valve, the handle and gate may have come apart and you are not really opening the valve.
    Yes it does stop, and again it fills faster if I have the basement tap on, it seems to bring the water pressure to the basement, so I am kind of second guessing if it is the intake switch that is the problem.
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #19

    Apr 9, 2013, 01:00 PM
    again it fills faster if I have the basement tap on
    To me that sounds like the hot water nipple is still blocked, (or blocked again).

    Opening faucet lets air out but water cannot pass. You could try back flushing again, then filling the tank slowly.

    Open drain valve with cold water stop valve open. You should get full flow and pressure out the drain. If you do, that should eliminate the possibility of blocked valve or blocked cold water nipple, leaving only blocked hot water nipple as culprit.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #20

    Apr 9, 2013, 02:05 PM
    Connect hose to heater drain valve and close cold water input valve. Open drain valve.
    That's not the way it's done. You POWER FLUSH not drai it,

    For long life and fewer troubles you should keep your heater clear of mineral build-up by FLUSHING NOT DRAINING on a regular schedule.

    Attach a hose to the boiler drain at the bottom of the tank. With the pressure on, open the boiler drain and let it run until the water runs clear. You will see a spurt of red,(rust) followed by white or yellow grains,(lime or calcium carbonate). This shouldn't take more then a few minutes.

    Do this monthly to keep it clear. Now flush out your hot water lines on ALL fixtures that are affected . Don't forget to flush it out every month. Your heater will thank you for it. Hope this helps and thank you for rating my answer,
    To test the hot water lines first shut off a hot water angle stop and disconnect the supply. Place a pan over the angle stop and turn it on. You should have a strong stream, If you don't then the hot water mains and branches are cloigged. If you get a strong stream then I would check and clean every cartridge that's affected. Don't forget to turn the water on to flush out the supplies before you reassemble each faucet. Good luck, Tom

    Tom

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