[ogjr1904]

I have a 98' honda accord dx, the problem I'm having is that when I turn it on it won't start, or it starts an then turns off, it also turns off while it is running. Could it be the fuel pump?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If you can hear the fuel pump run, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), it is likely good. I've never seen a bad Honda fuel pump.

I suspect your problem is distributor related. Installing and new Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil, located inside the distributor, usually solves the problem. Be sure to apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM.

[ogjr1904]

Hi, thanks for your response. I do here the fuel pump working
I bought a new ICM and an ignition module and replaced them both, I also bought new spark plugs and the cables. After I finished installing all of that the car strated right away, but in less than two minutes it turned off, I tried turning it on again and nothing, I waited twenty minutes and turned it on again. I don't know what else would be wrong with the car.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I bought a new ICM and an ignition module and replaced them both, I also bought new spark plugs and the cables. After I finished installing all of that the car strated right away, but in less than two minutes it turned off, I tried turning it on again and nothing, I waited twenty minutes and turned it on again. I don't know what else would be wrong with the car.

It's unclear to me if you replaced the coil. Have you checked for codes? If you removed the distributor, did you mark it first? Otherwise, the timing could be too retarded. How many miles are on the distributor? How long has it been since you replaced the rotor and distributor cap? Can you verify to me that the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)? Don't give up--success is close.

If the problem persists, and there are no codes and the CEL comes on and goes out normally, check/replace the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting.

[ogjr1904]

Yes, I replaced the coil too, there is about 180k miles on the distributor. I have not changed the rotor or the distributor cap. The check engine light does turn on then it turns off.
Also adding to your question I've checked around and there is no fuel filter.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Rotors and distributor caps should be changed every 60,000 miles. Your fuel pump has a strainer, not a filter.

Any codes? Did you remove the distributor?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If you change the rotor and distributor cap, the problem may be solved. I can see where those parts could be really worn and causing problems. Old rotors and distributor caps often cause high secondary voltage to destroy ICMs and coils. I would definitely replace them. My experience still leads me to suspect the distributor--go over everything carefully. Ensure all connectors are clean and tight. 180,000 miles on a Honda distributor housing is a lot. If you end up replacing it, be sure to only install a genuine Honda housing--then, simply install your aftermarket ICM and coil in it. Aftermarket housings for Hondas have been problematic, whereas aftermarket ICMs and coils have been fine.

[ogjr1904]

Thanks I will change them, also the rpms are too low when the car is on, and when I shift to D they go even lower, that's when it turns off.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Simply adjust the idle rpm to spec, likely around 700 rpm, by loosening the inside jamb nut (12mm) to the throttle cable bracket and taking up on the outside nut.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Did you remove or rotate the distributor? If so, simply loosen the three mounting bolts and you will likely need to rotate the distributor housing slightly counter-clockwise (CCW). This will advance the timing and speed the engine up. You may want to do this, prior or to adjusting the throttle cable, if you have disturbed the distributor before.

[ogjr1904]

OK this is what I did, I bought a new distributor and an original distributor cap and installed it, the car was fine for a day or two then it started to turn off again. I have to press on the gas to turn the car on and I do this a couple of times until it starts, I also got an obd ll reader and checked the freez frame data and the idle rpm and it is between 697 and 722

[ogjr1904]

OK after a long vacation, I finally fixed my car.
It was the ignition switch, it cost me around 70 bucks and fixed it myself. Thank you very much for your help

[Kovid]

When it shuts off and you turn the key back in the ignition position do you hear the fuel pump whirling or priming? That's another way to know, make you you know what the fuel pump priming sounds like first. You should have a hard time starting if its bad. My 99 Honda Accord had a problem starting and I wouldn't hear the pump priming so I replaced it as well and it worked. Not the same issue but another way to diagnosis.