Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    yaellla's Avatar
    yaellla Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Mar 24, 2007, 02:32 PM
    shower walls without tiles
    I have a bathtub installed with shower already and am finishing the walls and do not have to the time or the money to put in tile. Can I just paint the dry wall with several coats of waterproof paint or a shellac? I previously tried using a cheap, fake-tile-board glued to the dry wall that leaked within a couple weeks so we ripped it out. In our downstairs bathroom, we've used fibreglass sheets that come in 4x8 ft but is so difficult to cut and work with, we don't want to use it again.

    what I thought of originally was to paint the walls a color or design and then once its dry, paint over it with several coats of clear waterproof paint. Or shall I just get a waterproof paint in the color that I want? How many coats should I paint?
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #2

    Mar 24, 2007, 02:47 PM
    This is not a great idea. Even greenboard as opposed to drywall needs more than waterproof paint. Your fake stuff leaked because it was not properly caulked on all seams.
    EMERIL LAGASSE's Avatar
    EMERIL LAGASSE Posts: 101, Reputation: 4
    Junior Member
     
    #3

    Mar 24, 2007, 02:57 PM
    Some times u just got to pay
    Get r done:)
    RubyPitbull's Avatar
    RubyPitbull Posts: 3,575, Reputation: 648
    Ultra Member
     
    #4

    Mar 25, 2007, 11:26 AM
    There are some very inexpensive tiles and finishes out there. If you have a Home Depot or Loews near you, take a look at everything they have to offer. Make notes on what is affordable. Take a look at this site link I am including here. I have done a search for you and some articles popped up. If the articles don't fit the bill, type in other search topics.

    Search at DoItYourself.com

    As ballengerb1 points out, no matter what you do the most important aspect is making sure it is sealed tight. If it isn't, you will continue to have problems in whatever installation you choose to do.
    yaellla's Avatar
    yaellla Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #5

    Mar 26, 2007, 05:06 PM
    Okay, I scrapped the waterproof paint idea and used the fiberglass sheets and will caulk it especially well. Thanks for all your advice. ~yaella
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
    Ultra Member
     
    #6

    Mar 26, 2007, 05:26 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by yaellla
    okay, i scrapped the waterproof paint idea and went ahead and used the fiberglass sheets and will caulk it especially well. thanks for all your advice. ~yaella
    Ummm...

    They make corner beading material -- It still has to be caulked, but it's definitely better than relying solely on a caulked joint.
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #7

    Mar 26, 2007, 06:18 PM
    I also hope you are buying a good bathroom caulk and not just painters caulk. Some of the best caulk has Microban which fights mildew too.
    yaellla's Avatar
    yaellla Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #8

    Mar 27, 2007, 10:45 AM
    I have bought two kinds of bathroom caulk, one that is 100% silicone and then another kind which I'm not sure what it's made of. I did buy a couple of those white plastic pieces for the joint where the edges of the fiberglass sheet would fit into. And I squeezed silicone gel along the whole length of the joint piece before I slid the fiberglass sheet into it. I was going to put more of the other kind of caulk on top of that. Is this sounding like it might work? Or should I only use the silicone caulk? Thanks for all your help!
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #9

    Mar 27, 2007, 12:33 PM
    I'd go with the siicone since you didn't name the other caulk. That sounds fine for the seams but do a good caulk on all the edges and corners. This is where most failures take place.

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

Peeling shower walls [ 1 Answers ]

Can fiberglass shower walls that are peeling be painted or repaired or do I need to replace the unit (its located in the basement of our home) and since my son has moved his room there and the shower has been used more often the peeling is getting worse

Shower walls - replacement [ 1 Answers ]

Looking to replace free standing metal shower walls (32" X32"). The base is fine but the walls have rusted. Cannot find metals walls (or any other composition) that are free standing. Does any one know of a manufacturer or provider that still produces or stocks them?

Painting shower walls [ 1 Answers ]

I have an old, retro 70s shower wall (plastic with gold plating) that needs replacing, but I am on a tight budget. Can I seal and paint the existing shower wall until I am able to rip out and replace? Any advice on how to proceed?

Installing new tile shower walls [ 2 Answers ]

I am installing new tile on top of a new cultured marble shower pan. I rested the durock on the top lip of the shower pan as directed by company. Its now time to tile the walls. Should I rest the first row of tiles directly on top of the shower pan or should I lift the first row up just a little...

Shower Tiles [ 3 Answers ]

The shower tiles in the shower stall have mildew. Also one of the wall with tiles below the glass shower wall is buckling. The tiles right in front of the shower (once you step out) has mildew and moves a little. Could anyone suggest how I can correct these without breaking my bank. Thanks.


View more questions Search