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rasco847 · Mar 19, 2007, 05:24 PM

I have a push in/out valve for the shower,it's a moen but I don't know any model #. The problem I'm having is if I'm pushing it in to close, it opens up back up. Full blast( as if it was under pressure). It does this w/the main water turned on or off. I've replaced the cartridge inside the valve, but still have the same problem. Can anyone please help me? My budget is small and have to fix myself. Omar

rasco847 · Mar 20, 2007, 03:26 PM

Originally Posted by rasco847

i have a push in/out valve for the shower,its a moen but i don't know any model #. the problem i'm having is if i'm pushing it in to close, it opens up back up. full blast( as if it was under pressure). it does this w/the main water turned on or off. i've replaced the cartridge inside the valve, but still have the same problem. can anyone please help me? my budget is small and have to fix myself. Omar

I have an update if it helps. I've put the old cartridge back in and it stays in, but when I turn the water back on. Its OK. But if I flush the toilet it'll (the shower valve) pop out and turn on the water. I don't have a clue this is really strange to me. Omar

doug238 · Mar 20, 2007, 07:52 PM

You used too much lubricant inside the cartridge.

rasco847 · Mar 20, 2007, 10:32 PM

I've had this problem before changing cartridge. Thanks for the response though.

pimpin · Mar 20, 2007, 10:56 PM

Originally Posted by rasco847

i have a push in/out valve for the shower,its a moen but i don't know any model #. the problem i'm having is if i'm pushing it in to close, it opens up back up. full blast( as if it was under pressure). it does this w/the main water turned on or off. i've replaced the cartridge inside the valve, but still have the same problem. can anyone please help me? my budget is small and have to fix myself. Omar

Replace shower stim or shower valve

speedball1 · Mar 21, 2007, 10:01 AM

Rasco,

I had the same problem with my new kitchen faucet. The handle would drop and the water would shut off by itself. This is caused by the teflon lube that Moen uses on their new cartridges. This will disappear with time as the lube wears off. Live with it! It WILL go away. However, since you had this problem before you changed out the cartridge this tells me that your house pressure's set too high. The average house pressure's 45 PSI.What's yours? LRegards, Tom

rasco847 · Mar 21, 2007, 12:24 PM

Originally Posted by speedball1

Rasco,

I had the same problem with my new kitchen faucet. The handle would drop and the water would shut off by itself. This is caused by the teflon lube that Moen uses on their new cartridges. This will disappear with time as the lube wears off. Live with it! It WILL go away. However, since you had this problem before you changed out the cartridge this tells me that your house pressure's set too high. The average house pressure's 45 PSI.What's yours? lRegards, Tom

Hi tom I'm not really sure where to check the pressure? Is it on the same meter that the city uses to meter the water? I'm @ work now but will check around when I get home tonight

doug238 · Mar 21, 2007, 09:10 PM

Many times the plastic cartridge must be replaced with the brass cartridge to stop the cartridge from opening by itself. I personally do not like the brass cartridges because they are more difficult to operate much sooner.

rasco847 · Mar 22, 2007, 02:40 PM

Originally Posted by speedball1

Rasco,

I had the same problem with my new kitchen faucet. The handle would drop and the water would shut off by itself. This is caused by the teflon lube that Moen uses on their new cartridges. This will disappear with time as the lube wears off. Live with it! It WILL go away. However, since you had this problem before you changed out the cartridge this tells me that your house pressure's set too high. The average house pressure's 45 PSI.What's yours? lRegards, Tom

Hi tom
I went to homedepot and purchased a pressure gauge and hooked it up to the garden hose it read 50psi @ 1st. After an hour it went up to 60psi. The instructions said to leave on for 48hrs to get a accurate reading. Is this true? I've lived in this townhome( 2 townhomes in one home) a little over a year, @ 1st the valve would only open up a little bit then it went away for about 6months then came back worse. I cleaned out the valve of crud and it went away for a couple months now I am where I'm @ now.sorry I didn't tell you the whole story. I just didn't want to ramble on and on. What could I do if the psi exceeds 60? I don't see a pressure regulator in my home anywhere? Can I add one by the city meter ( in the house) ? :rolleyes: hoping I can DIY- omar

rasco847 · Mar 23, 2007, 05:04 PM

The pressure gauge has been on for a little over 24hrs. Its constantly on 60psi. The other needle shows the psi hit a high of 70. I know u said it should be around 45-50, could this be the cause of the problem I'm having

iamgrowler · Mar 23, 2007, 05:36 PM

60 and 70psi is a bit excessive -- I'd see about having a pressure reducing valve installed after the water meter.

doug238 · Mar 24, 2007, 08:51 AM

I have to disagree. When I lived in Florida the pressure at the street was a constant 60 psi and nobody used a prv [pressure reducing valve]. In fact I was not familiar with a prv until I came to atlanta in 2001. The average street pressure is 146 psi. in some areas like where I live the street pressure is 70 psi and I do not have a prv. The prv comes factory set at 50 psi. the code requires a prv if the pressure exceeds 80 psi.
It is my opinion that a static pressure of 60 to 70 psi is completely acceptable, and I would not sell that customer a prv. A pressure surge of a few pounds I would consider from the water heater heating up and not be concerned. If I was concerned in any way I would install an expansion valve and not just an expansion tank and feel completely comfortable and protected.

speedball1 · Mar 24, 2007, 11:15 AM

There's a reason that city water towers are 100 feet tall. The reason being that 100 feet of head pressure will give you 45 PSI at the base of the supply pipe in the ground. On long runs the city boosts the pressure with pumps and so a PRV valve is used to regulate it. Common sense will tell you that the higher the pressure the more strain will be put on joints, faucets and appliances. I'm with Doug in not liking brass cartridges. In my area the water will weld a Moen brass cartridge right to the valve body making it difficult to change them out. Regards, Tom