Check out some similar questions!

Moodie 516 · Oct 8, 2012, 03:58 PM

I have a 3 year old gas water heater, it leaked for 2 weeks straight then stopped, there was no water underneath the tank but the insulation was soaked. I emptied some of the water to see what it looked like, it was dark brown and had chunks of calcium in it, I don't know if that's normal or not, I never drained it in the 3 years like you are supposed to. My question is should I worry about this and if it leaked for 2 weeks why did it stop? I'm afraid it's going to burst when I'm not home one day and cause a flood, is this possible?

ma0641 · Oct 8, 2012, 04:02 PM

If it is 3 years old, it is still probably under warranty. Contact the manufacturer for possible solutions. Could be a pinhole. If there was no water under it, where did you find the water? Could be the PRV depending on how the piping is routed.

Moodie 516 · Oct 8, 2012, 05:54 PM

That's the whole problem though, it is under warranty but the company has done nothing, its been 7 weeks already, long story but I had to send it into the BBB. I just didn't know if it was something I could just quit worrying about now since it has stopped. The service man is the one that said there was no water underneath the actual tank but it was coming from the bottom of the tank if that makes any sense and leaking down into my drain so Im not sure.

ma0641 · Oct 8, 2012, 06:55 PM

I'd go back to point of purchase and tell them you will return it to them ASAP.

ballengerb1 · Oct 8, 2012, 07:17 PM

What model and brand do you own? Where do you live?

speedball1 · Oct 9, 2012, 08:29 AM

there was no water underneath the tank but the insulation was soaked.

How far up from the bottom was the insulation soaked?

The service man is the one that said there was no water underneath the actual tank but it was coming from the bottom of the tank if that makes any sense

And he still didn't pinpoint the leak? Back to Plmbing 101 for him.
Let's face a few facts. Pressure leaks , such as a boiler weld opening up, just don't stop and heal themselves. They only get worse, If the leak stopped the first tjing I'd check is the T&P valve, What's the house PSI? High PSI could ncause this peoblem. In the mean time if the leak has stopped I woyld syart to maintaine your heater before you really do have tol replace it.

For long life and fewer troubles you should keep your heater clear of mineral build-up by FLUSHING NOT DRAINING on a regular schedule.

Attach a hose to the boiler drain at the bottom of the tank. With the pressure on, open the boiler drain and let it run until the water runs clear. You will see a spurt of red,(rust) followed by white or yellow grains,(lime or calcium carbonate). This shouldn't take more then a few minutes.

Do this monthly to keep it clear. Now flush out your hot water lines on ALL fixtures that are affected . Now pull each aerator and clean the screens. Be sure you put them back together the same way you took them out. Don't forget to flush it out every month. Your heater will thank you for it. Hope this helps and thank you for rating my answer,

Tom

Moodie 516 · Oct 9, 2012, 04:42 PM

Originally Posted by ballengerb1

What model and brand do you own? Where do you live?

It is a kenmore power miser 6 and I live near Akron, Ohio

Moodie 516 · Oct 9, 2012, 04:45 PM

Originally Posted by speedball1

How far up from the bottom was the insulation soaked?
And he still didn't pinpoint the leak? Back to Plmbing 101 for him.
Let's face a few facts. Pressure leaks , such as a boiler weld opening up, just don't stop and heal themselves. they only get worse, If the leak stopped the first tjing I'd check is thge T&P valve, What's the house PSI? High PSI could ncause this peoblem. In the mean time if the leak has stopped I woyld syart to maintaine your heater before you really do have tol replace it.

For long life and fewer troubles you should keep your heater clear of mineral build-up by FLUSHING NOT DRAINING on a regular schedule.

Attach a hose to the boiler drain at the bottom of the tank. With the pressure on, open the boiler drain and let it run untill the water runs clear. You will see a spurt of red,(rust) followed by white or yellow grains,(lime or calcium carbonate). This shouldn't take more then a few minutes.

Do this monthly to keep it clear. Now flush out your hot water lines on ALL fixtures that are affected . Now pull each aerator and clean the screens. Be sure you put them back together the same way you took them out. Don't forget to flush it out every month. Your heater will thank you for it. Hope this helps and thank you for rating my answer,

Tom

Wow that's a lot for me :-( I don't even know what half that stuff is but I do plan on flushing it out, I heard once a year though not once a month. Thanks so much for the advice!

speedball1 · Oct 9, 2012, 04:57 PM

I heard once a year though not once a month. Thanks so much

Well you heard wrong! Any idea how much crud can build up in your tank in a year. Go back and read my instructions, As I stated in my last post, The only thing in a water heater that can leak and then stop leaking is the Temperature and Pressure valve. CHECK YOUR HOUSE PSI! And let me know what it is, Regards, Tom

Moodie 516 · Oct 10, 2012, 01:03 PM

Originally Posted by speedball1

Well ya heard wrong! Any idea how much crud can build up in your tank in a year. Go back and read my instructions, As I stated in my last post, The only thing in a water heater that can leak and then stop leaking is the Temperature and Pressure valve. CHECK YOUR HOUSE PSI!! and let me know what it is, Regards, Tom

How do I check the PSI?

speedball1 · Oct 10, 2012, 03:36 PM

How do I check the PSI?

You purchase a hose bib gage,(see image)Let me know what it reads. Back to you, Tom