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    ryan30wa's Avatar
    ryan30wa Posts: 11, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Sep 6, 2012, 07:39 AM
    tacumseh ohv155 no spark
    Hi I have no spark. Tested with a spark tester so I replaced the solid state ignition. I gapped it with a buiseness card like ny friendly true value service center guy said to. I still have no spark. I do have a pulse on the lower terminal while cranking. Did I get a defective part or am I missing something? Please help
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Sep 6, 2012, 08:11 AM
    The problem may be with the cutoff switch. Check continuity with a multimeter.
    ryan30wa's Avatar
    ryan30wa Posts: 11, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Sep 6, 2012, 08:16 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    The problem may be with the cutoff switch. Check continuity with a multimeter.

    The switch under the seat or on the back of the ignition? I have already eliminated the switch under the seat by unpluging it and jumping it
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    Sep 6, 2012, 08:17 AM
    Switch to the ignition.
    ryan30wa's Avatar
    ryan30wa Posts: 11, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Sep 6, 2012, 08:41 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Switch to the ignition.
    Ok so the green wire at the coil to the on position to the tumbler?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #6

    Sep 6, 2012, 08:55 AM
    Yes, try that.
    ryan30wa's Avatar
    ryan30wa Posts: 11, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Sep 6, 2012, 11:10 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Yes, try that.
    Ok thank you I will try that
    ryan30wa's Avatar
    ryan30wa Posts: 11, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Sep 6, 2012, 12:27 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Switch to the ignition.
    Yes have continuity with key on
    ryan30wa's Avatar
    ryan30wa Posts: 11, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Sep 6, 2012, 12:53 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by ryan30wa View Post
    Yes have continuity with key on
    Was using a hei spark tester no spark with any of the 3 of those switched to an adjustable spark tester and have week spark. Is my gap on the module to magnet set to far apart? Any one know what the true spec is for that?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #10

    Sep 6, 2012, 01:20 PM
    Clean any rust off the magnet on the flywheel with abrasive cloth. Forget about using a spark tester; instead, just look for a solid spark when the lead is held close to the engine block. Ensure the air filter is clean and you are getting fuel. Remove the spark plug, cover the spark plug hole with your thumb, rotate the engine, and ensure it has good compression. You may also want to remove the head and clean all carbon from the piston, head, and valves. Afterwards, drain the engine oil and refill with full synthetic engine oil (e.g. Mobil 1 10W-30).
    ryan30wa's Avatar
    ryan30wa Posts: 11, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    Sep 13, 2012, 07:41 AM
    Thanks for your help. I was going in the wrong direction. It didn't have enough energy to jump the spark tester I was using. It had spark all this time. I started over from scratch checked compression and had 30ftlbs. I pulled the valve cover off and found my rod for the intake valve had come out from under the rocker arm and the lifter had stuck. Luckily the rod didn't bend. To I was able to free the lifter and adjust the valves and now I have 75ftlbs of compression and it runs better than when I got it. Thanks again for your help

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