[TrophyBucks]

Hi,

Familiar with wiring and have installed sub panels, main panels and even a meter socket before the main. Remodeled kitchen and other rooms and never had inspector catch one problem or issue.

My problem involved a breaker that would not exactly trip and show orange. (square D). So switched breakers and problem same. However nothing in home for that circuit would work. Found Neutral wire loose at bus bar (where neutral & grounds connect). When I went to tighten it I heard a sizzling sound. Obviously voltage potential present. Pulled neutral out and just measured that wire point back to bus bar with Fluke. Found exactly 120.8 volts. Same as when I measured Black from breaker back to bus bar.

Even though breaker didn't show orange or the toggle switch not having moved, I lost all power to that circuit. Was 20 amp breaker feeding about 12 lights in 4 rooms and outlets for them rooms with nothing but radios or phone chargers, minor stuff current load wise. One outlet in open area(story and 1/2 home) was running window AC unit. I have isolated that outlet, meaning no power to it with breaker back on and still measure 120.8 volts from neutral wire(not connected) back to bus bar.

I have another Fluke Voltage tool that lights up when placed near Hot potential such as commonly black wires on single phase. When I hold it near neutrals, for instance in outlets or near lights anywhere else in house it stays off. Only with this one circuit will the neutral actually light up same as if it were the Hot side. With lights off neutral side was lighting up and same with neutral slots of outlets. I took about 5 other neutrals from other breaker circuits off bus bar and measured voltage back to bus with neutrals disconnected and found no voltage on any of them. Was just comparing and gathering findings.

If we go back when I mentioned I found the Neutral loose. Even if I were to tighten it down tight, isn't there something not correct with the circuit if I am finding that much or should I say exactly the same amount of voltage potential on the neutral as the hot side? Seems like something may be shorting or arching somewhere? Your thoughts or any insight what to check would be great.

Thank you!

[Stratmando]

The Voltage is going out the breaker, through a switch and up to a light bulb, and needs a neutral to work, otherwise you will have voltage on the Neutral as it is going through the filiment. With a Tight connection on the Neutral Bar, the voltage will be back a zero.
You want to be careful removing neutrals on Multicircuits(2 hots sharing a neutral), you could destroy things by high and low voltages.

[jerro]

Something on that circuit is on sending power back through the neutral to the panel and trying to make a solid connection at the neutral bar. The sizzling sound is the load constantly going on and off because the conncetion at the neutral bar is not tight. It is just as important to check and make sure these connections are also tight to prevent problems in the future.