[msloboaz]

Inside ,can I cover them with drywall or some other kind of covering
And how could I anchor it to brick??
I would appreciate any suggestions. Thank you birgit

[nmwirez]

inside ,can i cover them with drywall or some other kind of covering
and how could i anchor it to brick???
I would appreciate any suggestions. thank you birgit

Like installing drywall up against concrete walls, a furred out vertical stud framing at 16" on centers is used in order to hang the sheetrock adequately. The pressure treated studs can be directly attached using concrete nails ramset shot into the brick grout grooves. The framed studwall is the accepted installation method for code compliance in many jurisdictions. I have always wanted to attach sheetrock directly to a masonry wall but ran into code restrictions due to moisture entrapment that will warp the wallboard into an unprofessional looking product.

One thing that I have never seen done that would meet the approved coverage acceptance would be to attach concrete fiber wall board directly to the concrete or brick wall surface with masonry mollies or ramset nails. This would be expensive but would be functionally finished with a mortared concrete or tile finished wall.

Any takers? :) :) nm

[msloboaz]

Like installing drywall up against concrete walls, a furred out vertical stud framing at 16" on centers is used in order to hang the sheetrock adequately. The pressure treated studs can be directly attached using concrete nails ramset shot into the brick grout grooves. The framed studwall is the accepted installation method for code compliance in many jurisdictions. I have always wanted to attach sheetrock directly to a masonry wall but ran into code restrictions due to moisture entrapment that will warp the wallboard into an unprofessional looking product.

One thing that I have never seen done that would meet the approved coverage acceptance would be to attach concrete fiber wall board directly to the concrete or brick wall surface with masonry mollies or ramset nails. This would be expensive but would be functionally finished with a mortared concrete or tile finished wall.

Any takers? :) :) nm

Thank's this is also what I heard from All Experts plus using some kind of foam insulation with the furringstrips. Also living in dry Arizona I could glue and prop the wallboard in to place but did not say what kind of glue or liquid nails. I want to be on the safe side and not have any mold later

[nmwirez]

Thank's this is also what i heard from All Experts plus using some kind of foam insulation with the furringstrips. Also living in dry Arizona i could glue and prop the wallboard in to place but did not say what kind of of glue or liquid nails. I want to be on the safe side and not have any mold later

Depending on how hot it gets during the day, wall board needs an insulation or air barrier between it and the masonry or else the sheetrock will warp and discolor. This also depends on how big an area the sheetrock covers. If you are doing a full 8 foot high wall, then I recommend avoid trying to bond sheetrock to brick.

Sheetrock is hung horizontally starting the first course from the ceiling down. This is professional methods for avoiding wavy walls in the finish work. If the sheetrock is only a small piece for mantle decorative backdrop I would say bonding in place with a contact cement coverage on the bricks and then on the back of the sheetrock would work. Be sure when you stick the board up that it is aligned perfectly because there is no recovery once the contact cement sticks. To realign becomes an exercise in destruction.

Another source of bonding information is asking a glass company what they use to attach large mirrors to the wall nowadays. You still need to support the board edges to keep the whole sheet from sliding down the wall until the mastic cures in two days. I kind of describe it like 'gravity creep'.

I believe putting foam board (great insulation R factor BTW) between furring strips is a best way proposition. The foam can be attached (vertical) with a spot of contact cement(Weldwood) every 1 foot space. The furring needs to have masonry bit drilled holes in the mortar grooves for attaching large areas of sheetrock later... or... by using a ramset shot concrete nail to hold the 2x furring to the wall needs accurately spaced nails every 8 inch spacing in the field for large areas.

One more option that I have not tried yet but will put this out as an idea to try... is the use of Pergo floor lamination on the wall hung vertically of course. This may work because the backing is fairly rigid and not moisture or heat prone. Bonding directly to the brick seems like it would work really good. Just a thought. You could alternate with Laminante-sheetrock hung (propped up from base trim vertically) in between . (one 4 ft wide rock, two 4" wide laminate strips.)

So there is my design of the week idea. I hope this helps. Nm:)

[msloboaz]

Depending on how hot it gets during the day, wall board needs an insulation or air barrier between it and the masonry or else the sheetrock will warp and discolor. This also depends on how big an area the sheetrock covers. If you are doing a full 8 foot high wall, then I recommend avoid trying to bond sheetrock to brick.

Sheetrock is hung horizontally starting the first course from the ceiling down. This is professional methods for avoiding wavy walls in the finish work. If the sheetrock is only a small piece for mantle decorative backdrop I would say bonding in place with a contact cement coverage on the bricks and then on the back of the sheetrock would work. Be sure when you stick the board up that it is aligned perfectly because there is no recovery once the contact cement sticks. To realign becomes an exercise in destruction.

Another source of bonding information is asking a glass company what they use to attach large mirrors to the wall nowadays. You still need to support the board edges to keep the whole sheet from sliding down the wall until the mastic cures in two days. I kind of describe it like 'gravity creep'.

I believe putting foam board (great insulation R factor BTW) between furring strips is a best way proposition. The foam can be attached (vertical) with a spot of contact cement(Weldwood) every 1 foot space. The furring needs to have masonry bit drilled holes in the mortar grooves for attaching large areas of sheetrock later...or...by using a ramset shot concrete nail to hold the 2x furring to the wall needs accurately spaced nails every 8 inch spacing in the field for large areas.

One more option that I have not tried yet but will put this out as an idea to try... is the use of Pergo floor lamination on the wall hung vertically of course. This may work because the backing is fairly rigid and not moisture or heat prone. Bonding directly to the brick seems like it would work really good. Just a thought. You could alternate with Laminante-sheetrock hung (propped up from base trim vertically) in between . (one 4 ft wide rock, two 4" wide laminate strips.)

So there is my design of the week idea. I hope this helps. nm:)

thanks so far it seems the furring seems to be the way to go. It get's pretty hot in Tucson up to 110 during summer.The walls are 12x8 in bedroom and 14x8 in kitchen. I will check out your idea of using Pergo floor lamination also and compare cost and workload.

[nmwirez]

thanks so far it seems the furring seems to be the way to go. It get's pretty hot in Tucson up to 110 during summer.The walls are 12x8 in bedroom and 14x8 in kitchen. I will check out your idea of using Pergo floor lamination also and compare cost and workload.

Pergo is kind of spendy. I see where you are needing insulation. Windows are also another heat factor. Awnings work on the South exposed side. Instead of Pergo, here is another thought. Would you believe using a close loop Berber over foam insulation board? Now that can be real designer between Pergo vertical strips. You can bond the Berber to more of a rigid foam border. CelloTex even has aluminum foil for a barrier. Keep asking.. . nm