[ms.navarrete]

I want to learn to do it myself, and also to change the antyfreeze.

[CaptainRich]

Doing your own maintenance is both rewarding and economical. You will save money by not paying for someone else's labor and you'll know the job is done right since you're doing it yourself.
I would recommend finding an auto repair manual at your local book store or library. Read everything you can find online, too. There are many sites dedicated to the DIYer that can take you from oil changes and tire replacements to complete brake repairs (once you're confident enough... )

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Changing Engine Oil and Filter

Always change engine oil, when the engine is hot. This allows a faster, more complete drain. If you change the oil when the engine is cold, dirt will cling to the sides of the block and pan.

1. Remove engine oil dip stick and filler cap, to facilitate draining and to prevent PCV valve contamination.

2. Place car on jack stands.

3. Place drain pan under car and remove oil filter, using a cap wrench and 3/8-inch ratchet wrench or a strap wrench.

4. Fill oil filter with engine oil, install filter, and torque to 16 ft.-lbs. using a cap wrench. Since most engine wear takes place at start up, filling the oil filter with oil prevents a "dry start." I recommend using premium oil filters. Premium oil filters have a red silicone rubber anti-drain back valve that makes a real difference in not allowing the oil to drain from horizontally-mounted oil filters overnight. This provides much quieter valves at startup. These new premium filters (e.g. PureOne, Amsoil Ea, and Mobil 1 EP) are worth the money, in my opinion. Filtration is rightfully the new "big thing" in lubrication.

5. Place drain pan under oil pan and, using a box-end wrench, remove oil drain plug. When draining is complete, install drain plug hand-tight and torque to the recommended number of ft.-lbs.

6. Lower car from jack stands.

7. Add recommend amount of approved weight engine oil to oil filler hole (SAE 5W-30), using a funnel. I recommend buying the best full-synthetic lubricants available (e.g. Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum).

8. Replace oil dip stick and filler cap.

9. Start car and check for leaks. Ensure car is not overfilled with oil.

10. Update Maintenance Log--record "Date, Mileage, and Work Performed." Refer to it often. I use Microsoft Word and keep a Maintenance Log for each of my vehicles in my PC--it's incredibly handy and facilitates staying on top of maintenance.

I recommend changing synthetic engine oil and filter every 6,000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first.

Changing antifreeze

Always change coolant when the engine is cold.

1. Place front end of the car on jack stands.

2. Remove the radiator cap.

3. Open the pipcock and allow the radiator to drain in a suitable container.

4. Remove and empty overflow container.

5. Tighten pipcock.

6. Refill overflow container and radiator with a 50/50 mixture of the proper antifreeze (Dex-Cool) and distilled water. Alternatively, refill with prediluted coolant. Don't use tap water, since it has too many minerals in it and can form phosphate scale inside the radiator and heater core.

7. With the radiator cap off, start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. Add coolant, as necessary.

8. Replace radiator cap and drive the vehicle for several miles. Allow the engine to cool down overnight and adjust the level in the morning.

9. Update your maintenance log.

10. Dispose of the old coolant responsibly.

Change coolant every 30,000 miles or 3 years, whichever comes first. Some cars have air bleed bolts--check your Owner's Manual. It's very important to bleed all air from the system.