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    lostmymind's Avatar
    lostmymind Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Mar 8, 2012, 09:37 PM
    '91 Civic won't start
    My kid has a 91 civic that I'm trying to help get going again. It ran fine for a while then up and quit. The fuel pump wouldn't run. So replaced the fuel pump which didn't help, then the main relay, then ignition coil, now the ignition switch and lock assy (it was binding-so it had to go).
    The check engine light comes on, but never goes off, the fuel pump doesn't run, no spark, and the ECM is dark (fuse is good and had a spare-same problem). I have a distributor that it brand new to sap out. Oh yea-the timing belt is NOT broken. I'm freaking baffled!
    masterevil1990's Avatar
    masterevil1990 Posts: 75, Reputation: 1
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    #2

    Mar 8, 2012, 09:45 PM
    OK no promises but my 1990 civc was doing the same thing... if you've replaced all those parts it sounds like it could possibly be either the main fuel relay ( if its trying to start) or the ICM... that's all I know...

    Look for any answers by TXgreasemonkey... he knows his stuff
    Little96's Avatar
    Little96 Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Mar 8, 2012, 10:27 PM
    Try testing the computer because one short on the newer cars like that could mess up quite a bit actually
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    Mar 9, 2012, 06:49 AM
    When you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds? If not, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, in the under dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test, below); main relay; or the ignition switch. Perform tests in that order.

    The K-Test

    Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multi-meter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. The K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

    My bet is the ECM has failed. Replace it and the fuel pump will run, once again, and the car will likely start right up. Be sure to remove the old ECM first and get an exact Honda Part No. match. Shop for price and warranty.
    lostmymind's Avatar
    lostmymind Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Mar 9, 2012, 02:36 PM
    The check engine light never goes out-I'll check the fuse when I get home from work tonight-I am hoping it's that easy. I'll probably scrap the distributor anyway regardless because of the stuff I've read about the ignition coil packs testing good on a bench (like mine) then turn out to be crap. I'll post again tonight.
    Thank Tex!
    lostmymind's Avatar
    lostmymind Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Mar 9, 2012, 02:42 PM
    Hey Tex, what about the ECU being dark with no signs of life-when you first key the car on, the ECU should flash once to show it's ready, and then flash codes if it has stored errors. Any different thoughts besides the ACG fuse?
    lostmymind's Avatar
    lostmymind Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Mar 10, 2012, 08:03 PM
    It was the alternator fuse. I still think my problem may have been originally with the fuel pump or fuel relay, but I found that fuse blown, swapped it out and fired it right up. Thanks for all the help and insight.
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