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New Member
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Mar 7, 2012, 06:55 PM
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1998 Honda Accord won't start
Hi, I have a 98 Accord LX that will not start. First, the car has been sitting for about 3 years, it had a warped head gasket and there was no compression in cylinder 3. So, we got that fixed, and changed the oil. So now tonight we attempted to start the car and it would not start..
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Uber Member
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Mar 7, 2012, 07:01 PM
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. Purge the fuel system, including tank, of all old gas. Refill with more than a token amount of gas. Replace the fuel filter. Turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), until the fuel pump stops running; then turn it OFF. Repeat this process two more times to fully pressurize the fuel rail.
. Ensure the Check Engine Light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II).
. Verify that you can hear the fuel pump run during that 2 second interval.
. Remove and fully charge the battery. Clean the battery terminals and cable connections.
. Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter.
. Check for codes.
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Internet Research Expert
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Mar 7, 2012, 07:35 PM
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Was this the first attempt at starting the car since all the work that has been done or was it running after the work was performed and now it has quit?
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New Member
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Mar 8, 2012, 02:38 PM
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@TxGreaseMonkey Ok will try these solutions and see what happens
@califdadof3 It was the first attempt
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New Member
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Mar 8, 2012, 05:29 PM
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I have a video showing what's happens http://tinypic.com/r/24q8t93/5
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Internet Research Expert
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Mar 8, 2012, 06:05 PM
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Have you verified your timing and also the alaignment of your cam to the pistons? It sounds like it is off.
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Uber Member
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Mar 8, 2012, 06:22 PM
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From your video, it appears that when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), the Check Engine Light (CEL) stays on. If the CEL does not go out, most Hondas will not spark and the fuel pump will not run. Therefore, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, in the under dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test, below); main relay; or the ignition switch. Perform tests in that order.
The K-Test
Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it’s probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt.
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New Member
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Mar 8, 2012, 07:13 PM
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@TxGreaseMonkey OKay, but before when the car was still working the Check Engine Light would come on and stay on, until the gasket warped.
@califdadof3 My father has said that could be a reason and that he is going to see if that resolves the problem.
Will let you guys know what happens tomorrow, thanks for the help!
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New Member
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Mar 10, 2012, 06:56 PM
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Finally got the car to start today.. but for it to stay on the accelerator had to be pressed down. The car did not rev or anything it just stayed at the 1.
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Internet Research Expert
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Mar 10, 2012, 07:06 PM
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What had you done to get it running to this point since the other day and the video ?
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New Member
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Mar 10, 2012, 07:22 PM
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My dad said he cleaned off the spark plugs and fiddled with some things(not sure).
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