[matthewgryan]

I just replaced the distributor, the cap and rotor and put new plugs and wires on. The car had recently not started one morning and I did a spark test and didn't seem to be getting any. I could smell the fuel on the spark plugs so I knew it was getting fuel. After I replaced all the stuff, it cranks over really hard and sounds like not all the cylinders and firing, or firing out of order? But I was able to get it started and running but only after I pressed and held the gas pedal down, and then it died right after that. Now it is sounding like it is backfiring when I try to start it back up again. Any help would be awesome!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Does the Check Engine Light consistently come on for 2 seconds and then go out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)?

[matthewgryan]

Yes it comes on and then goes off. It did on the time that I got the car running, come on and start blinking? But then went off once the car died and hasn't come back on since then.

[matthewgryan]

TxGreaseMonkey, I have read a lot of your other replies I have been trying to figure this out for a day now. I really thought that by changing the all that, I should be good.

-OH yeah when I first replaced all the stuff, I noticed that the first and last spark plugs were all carboned up? They still seem like that after I cleaned them. The two middle ones just looked wet from the gas? Maybe this will help?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

When you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds? If not, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, in the under dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test); main relay; or the ignition switch. Perform tests in that order.

[matthewgryan]

Yes when I turn the ignition switch to ON, the CEl comes on for 2 seconds and then comes off. The car was running great until one morning two days ago it would just crank and crank and not start.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Your problem, then, is likely with the distributor. You've done a lot of good things to your Civic, which won't be in vain. Is the new distributor made by Honda? Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas don't work at AMHD. The remaining ones are usually not reliable for long.

[matthewgryan]

No, I was looking for something quick, It is a one from autozone. I am stationed in Maryland right now and wanted to go home to NC this weekend. Does it make a difference that it is not a Honda part?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Andrews AFB? I used to be stationed there.

I suspect the problem is with AutoZone's distributor. Return it and ask for another. Better, yet, buy a genuine Honda distributor housing and install a new aftermarket Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil, to keep the cost down. We've never had problems with this combination. This is one of the few parts that I recommend going OEM. None of the other manufacturers seem to be able to get the internal sensors (CKP, TDC, and CYL) right. Therefore, timing gets off--like your backfiring.

In my mind, this will solve your problem.

[matthewgryan]

So basically return the all the unit to Autozone and try an all Honda one? I will try that tomorrow I guess. I am done for the night. And I wish Andrews, but no I am at Fort Meade for a reclass of MOS. Would the distributor make the car run so rough? And then die out after I release the gas? I does seem like the distributor when two of the spark plugs seemed fooled up with carbon and the other two had nothing on them. I put the old dist. cap and old wires on and the old spark plugs to see if that made a difference and it seemed start up better,(not as rough) but still wouldn't start, so maybe it is the coil in the new distributor?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Yes, a problem with the distributor will make it run rough or not start at all. Your problem should be easy to solve. I'd advise you to buy an ICM and coil from AutoZone and install them in a new distributor housing from Honda. This will give you the reliability you need. Almost anything else could leave you stranded or cause the car to die on you in the left lane, going 70 mph in rush hour traffic.

[matthewgryan]

All right, that sounds like a plan then to me.. I will try this out tomorrow or the next day. I am in school so I don't get out till like 5 and don't get too much sunlight here... I will let you know what comes about it. Thank you for the information and the help.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

In 5-1/2 years at AMHD, I've seen this situation play out hundred of times with Hondas. Distributors are their weak link. Most Honda distributors only last 50,000 to 100,000 miles.

Everything you did was spot on and should have worked. The problem was the poor quality of the AutoZone distributor.

[matthewgryan]

OK thanks, and the original Distributor made it 195k miles... and new autozone... zero miles... haha Well I will be back here in a day or two. Wish me luck. Thanks.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

That must be a record--I've never seen one go that long. You got your money's worth! Let me know if I'm right or wrong.

Install the new ICM and coil, while you have the distributor housing on your desk. Be sure to apply silicone heat transfer compound, which AutoZone should give you, to the back of the new ICM. Use a quality precision tip Phillips #2 screwdriver--like those that come with bit sets today. Disconnect the negative battery cable, prior to beginning work.

[matthewgryan]

TxGreaseMonkey,
So I ended up going back and replacing the Distributor from Autozone and had to get another one from them. The Honda dealer said the closest one was in a warehouse in New Jersey and it would be a few days to get it. But the new one did the trick. Thank you for the help.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Nice job.