[Diosbndice]

2 years ago it did the same but the honda dealer took it in, changed the computer, adjusted timing belt (skipped 3 notches) and pair the keys with the immobilizer; they also found there was no communication between the computer and the injectors. Can't believe I did all that damage by driving it 30 days after I bought it! I paid nothing then. Now the ball is on me and want to do as much as I can. Recently the car stop working few miles after it kind of stall and I roughly accelerated it but the front suspension and car started jumping while sliding in the pavement at the point until it started running. I mention this because I wonder if that could affected the timing belt. I tested the ignition switch and the instrument lights are on,the warning lights like oil, engine, and key stay on after the car stalls. I need to test the radio and pedal/stop lights, and light beams and check if they work with the key in step II or I. It has full gas tank and the battery is OK. I used the code reader from autozone, NO Codes found. I am very disapointed. Another mechanic said it is the ignition switch. I've downloaded info to test it and a video on how to clean the egr, test the main relay, etc. Haven't had time to do the tests until tomorrow. Still don't know where to start. I need to test if there is constant gas/pressure at the injectors, although it seems that the gas pump works when the ignition switch is in I position. And there are other clicks I can hear when activating the switch. Help please!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. Check all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter.

. Clean the main ECM ground.

. Check that the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II). If not, there may be a problem with the ECM. Verify that you have 5 reference volts at selected sensors.

. Check/replace the ignition switch for wear or pitting.

. Check/replace the Camshaft Position Sensor and Crankshaft Position Sensor.