[brucemiller79]

In the last 2 weeks I've had to relieve the pressure on my well Pressure tank. Both times it had climbed to about 48psi. The pressure switch is set to 30/50. The reason I did this was the switch/pump has been cycling frequently. What would cause the PSI in the well tank to climb? Am I sucking air in the well?

[speedball1]

48 PSI is what the bladder tank should be charged at whet the pump's shut down and the pressure's bled off by opening a cold water faucet. Reset the PSI in your bladder tank and see if that doesn't help. What does your gage read when the pump pumps to pressure? When the pump cycles does the gage fall? If so let's start to find out why. Back to you, Tom

[brucemiller79]

I reset the PSI to 28PSI... now the pump kicks on at about 22psi and turns off about 42... so I guess the switch is set at 20/40. When I said 30/50, I was reading it from the switch housing. Should I drop the tank pressure to 19psi instead of the 28psi?

Also, I can't seem to drain the tank. So the PSI I'm reading is with the Pump breaker off, water valve to the softener system off, and the drain cracked wide open. I can tell there's still water in the tank by rocking it. I've also had water quality issues (Hot water is dirty and stinks) but that's probably for another thread. (the hot water anode rod has already been removed)

[speedball1]

Charge the bladder tank at 2 PSI under the cut in pount. In my last post I said;

When the pump cycles does the gage fall? If so let's start to find out why.

At this point in time I'm more concerned about the pump cycling. Let's check it out.
Pump to cut off pressure and shut the valve that feeds the house. Watch the gage over time does it fall and keep falling? Let me know, Tom

[ballengerb1]

Ok... the feed coming into the house (from the crawlspace) doesn't have a shutoff valve. The flexible tube comes out of the ground and ties into the PVC... the PVC/pipe travels to a T... one side going to annother T (for the pressure switch/gage and then to the pressure tank) and the other going up to a cut-off valve. After the cut-off valve, there's a water filter, and then another cut off valve. From there, the line feeds the house. Seems kind of stupid to me... but I'm not a plumber. I can turn power off to the pump (via the breaker) if that will result in the same thing? But after I bled the PSI down to 28psi, the pump doesn't cycle all the time. (seems to operate the way it's intended). My issue is that this is the 2nd time in 2 weeks that I've had to bleed air out of the pressure tank. Not sure if this helps...

Once the pump shuts off (42psi), the gauge holds there until the water is turned on... then it drops until it hits the 22psi causing the pump to kick back on... the gauge doesn't drop when this happens. It's climbs until it hits 42psi and then the switch cuts the pump off. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought this was normal operation? Maybe I didn't explain it correctly to begin with... the pump cycling only occurs when there is water being used somewhere in the house. (and before I bled the excess pressure from the pressure tank) I've never heard it cycling when no water was in use.

No need to start a new thread. Just type your responses in the blank nox at the bottom of your other post. I will try to get this merged

[jlisenbe]

"48 PSI is what the bladder tank should be charged at whet the pump's shut down and the pressure's bled off..."

I think you misstated that one. That would be 2# under cutoff pressure. The tank should be set to 2# under cutin pressure, which in his case would be about 20#.

[speedball1]

The tank should be set to 2# under cut in pressure,

I agree with jlisenbe. The bladder tank is always charged at 2 PSI under the point the pump cuts in. Regards, Tom