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alan001 · Feb 20, 2007, 02:35 PM

Hi: I have a price Pfister one handle faucet. It has a pull out style sprayer in the middle, not separate faucet and sprayer. I had low pressure on the faucet lately, so I cleaned the screen on the spray head. It increased the pressure for a while but the pressure dropped again. The pressure with the head removed was good. Since it has to be the head, I replaced it with a generic one. It worked for one day and it is slow again.

So, after the long story, my question is: other than the screen at the end of the spray head, is there something else on the head that needs to be cleaned? I looked at it, but seemed like I couldn't disassemble it other than the screen. The pressure without the head was good.

Thank you!

Alan

speedball1 · Feb 20, 2007, 03:39 PM

The question isn't about what screen to clean, the question is what's clogging it up and how can you stop it? What's the stuff look like that you have to clean off. Does it get there through hot or cold water? Back to you.
Regards, Tom

alan001 · Feb 20, 2007, 04:02 PM

Hi, speedball1:

Thank you for the reply. The stuff that I clean from the screen of the old sprayer were white solids. My guess they are the minerals that precipitate in the hot water. Clearing them from the screen worked for a while, but not any more.

Since the pressure is good on the hose in front of the sprayer and cleaning the screen is no longer effective, I thought maybe something else inside the sprayer is clogged. Your help is greatly appreciated!

speedball1 · Feb 20, 2007, 04:12 PM

Do these "white solids" crumble when squeezed or are they hard? Tom

alan001 · Feb 20, 2007, 04:36 PM

They crumble when squeezed.

doug238 · Feb 20, 2007, 05:30 PM

I know this one. Going to see what tom says because I think he knows too.

speedball1 · Feb 20, 2007, 05:46 PM

OK Doug,
Let's see if we're on the same page.
Alan, you have mineral build up,( calcium carbonate) in your water heater and now it's worked it's way into your system. Before you do much more flush your heater. Let me show you how.
For long life and fewer troubles you should keep your heater clear of mineral build-up by flushing on a regular schedule. Attach a hose to the boiler drain at the bottom of the tank. With the pressure on, open the boiler drain and let it run until the water runs clear. You will see a spurt of red,(rust) followed by white grains,(lime or calcium carbonate). This shouldn't take more then a few minutes. Do this monthly to keep it clear. Also run the hot water in your valve to flush the supply. If the water stops or slows down you'll have to shut the water off and open up the valve to clean the inlet ports on the cartridge. . Now check each aerator and clean the screens if needed. Be sure you put them back togather the same way you took them out. Don't forget to flush it out every month. Your heater will thank you for it. Hope this helps, Tom

doug238 · Feb 20, 2007, 05:49 PM

I have seen that. Actually, I forgot about that. I was thinking dip tube

speedball1 · Feb 20, 2007, 05:56 PM

Doug, That's why I asked if it was hard or crumbled when squeezed. While both are white particals a dip tube's white plastic and is hard while mineral with crumble. Regards, Tom
And now I'm kicking back and pouring a small drink . Have a good one. T

doug238 · Feb 20, 2007, 05:59 PM

Love that edit feature. I hear ribs are on sale...

alan001 · Feb 20, 2007, 06:41 PM

Thank you!

I will try what you suggested. Actually I partly drained the heater several months back. Instead of completely draining it, I only removed a gallon or two that time. Do I need to drain it completely for the white stuff to come off?

Maybe I did not understand your instructions correctly. Do I need to do anything special in order to fill the heater back up? Should I just open the hot water in the house (maybe the faucet) for a while? Pardon my ignorance please.

A related question. I partly drained the heater only once a year because I found that I needed to really tighten the valve (after each draining) for it not to drip. Is that normal or should I somehow fix the valve?

speedball1 · Feb 20, 2007, 06:54 PM

That's right Doug, I lit the grill! Have a great evening! Tom

speedball1 · Feb 20, 2007, 07:02 PM

Originally Posted by alan001

Thank you!

I will try what you suggested. Actually I partly drained the heater several months back. Instead of completely draining it, I only removed a gallon or two that time. Do I need to drain it completely for the white stuff to come off?

Maybe I did not understand your instructions correctly. Do I need to do anything special in order to fill the heater back up? Should I just open the hot water in the house (maybe the faucet) for a while? Pardon my ignorance please.

A related question. I partly drained the heater only once a year because I found that I needed to really tighten the valve (after each draining) for it not to drip. Is that normal or should I somehow fix the valve?

Alan,

Go back and read my instructions again. You do not drain the heater, you leave the pressure on and you only let it run for a minute or two. Where does the boiler drain leak from? The stem or the spout? Let me know in the morning what you find. Tom

alan001 · Feb 20, 2007, 08:21 PM

I read your instructions again. Would you please see if I understand you correctly?

I should attach a hose to the bottom drain of the water heater. Without closing off the water inlet to the heater (this is what you mean by keeping the pressure on, right? ) I should let the water flow from the boilier drain through the hose until the outflowing water becomes clear.

After that, I should open the faucet again to flush the line. Should I let the faucet run cocurrently or after flushing the heater ?

Thank you! And have a nice grill :)

Alan