[1998acuratl]

Have found a trouble code P1660 on my 1998 acura 2.5 tl. My vehicle now will not start. When I step on the breaks my car will not allow me to take my gear out of parking and into other gears I try resetting the code, but every time I stick in my keys into the ignition and try to start the car, the trouble code starts again. I want to know what I need to purchase and what steps I need to do to diagnose and fix this problem.


Thank you very much,

Avid acura driver

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. Check all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

. Perform tests, in Sections A and B, below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

If the Check Engine Light comes on right away, be sure to perform the K-Test. Your ECM may be bad.

P1660 = A/T FI Signal A Circuit Failure. This code being thrown may be a symptom and not the cause of your problem. The real problem could be a failed ECM or main relay. The focus needs to on getting the CEL to come on for 2 seconds and then go out. Normally, this situation arises from a bad fuse, ECM, main relay, or ignition switch.

[1998acuratl]

. Check all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

. Perform tests, in Sections A and B, below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

If the Check Engine Light comes on right away, be sure to perform the K-Test. Your ECM may be bad.

P1660 = A/T FI Signal A Circuit Failure. This code being thrown may be a symptom and not the cause of your problem. The real problem could be a failed ECM or main relay. The focus needs to on getting the CEL to come on for 2 seconds and then go out. Normally, this situation arises from a bad fuse, ECM, main relay, or ignition switch.

I found out that it was a fuse under the steering colomn that was burnt ( 20Amp for ecu, sat ecu or something like that). WHen fuse is replace, my car starts, gets into gear and it runs. HOwever another roblem I am encontering now is that once I replace that fuse, it blows again within 2 minutes of driving and all codes return ( P1660, P0135, P0141).

What do you think it could be thank you

[TxGreaseMonkey]

The new codes popping up (below), and blowing a 20 amp fuse (which is pretty husky), may be symptomatic of a major problem (short) with the ECM:

P0135--Front HO2S Heater Circuit Fault (Sensor 1)
P0141--Secondary HO2S Heater Circuit Fault (Sensor 2)

The codes being thrown may be accurate--I'm just not sure. If you believe they are accurate, then check out Oxygen Sensors 1 and 2. Ensure the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing, is clean. Perform the K-Test on the ECM--let's see what reading you get.

If you could substitute a known-good ECM, and see if the problems go away, that would be ideal. Does the fuse blow after 2 minutes, if you turn the ignition key to ON (Position II)?

[mr.98acTL2.5]

How do you perform a k test?

[southsacboy916]

Try checking your o2 sensor wire that runs along your tailpipe and then back up by the firewall. There are two so just check and make sure they are both plugged in and that there aren't any problems with the wires. I had this same problem and it was that o2 sensor wire. If not there check underneath the front passenger there is a wire to some sensor that runs under the carpet, if someone replaced that and didn't tuck it under the carpet good after hooking it up it couldve got caught in the tracks of the seat. Moving the seat back and forward will eventually sever the wire altogether. My friend has the same car and had the same problem as you and I and that's what was wrong with his.

[aceauto18]

@Southsacboy916 you were correct. My problem was the same as the one you described your buddy was having I went to look under the passenger seat and BAAAM that was it, thax for your post it was helpful.

[southsacboy916]

Not a problem... glad I can spare someone of the headaches I had. I replaced starter, ignition, main relay, and the ecu all for nothing. I spent roughly 500 for all those parts and no luck. When all I had to do was re-connect the wire that was severed. Costed me a couple dollars for some wire nuts n electrical tape n my problem was solved. U live and learn I guess... good luck with your car, after fixing that problem my tl has been great to me. Runs like a champ even with 220, 000 miles.