[trevapaul]

I have a 95 honda civic ex. I drove it all day and went to the movies in the evening, I left the lights on and when I came out the battery power was very low. I Jumped the battery but the car won't start up. The engine cranks but won't start. I had the car towed home and the next morning I cleaned and gaped new spark plugs, checked all the fuses, tested the plugs for a spark (achieved a dull orange spark) and smelled gas as the engine was cranking (fule pump working?) Any suggestions?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil. Apply silicone heat transfer grease to the back of the new ICM.

[trevapaul]

Hi and thank you TXGreaseMonkey for your speedy response. My ICM has finally come in the mail but I am having trouble figuring out how to replace it. The manual just gives a diagram and says to take out screws and unplug wires and install new module, but one screw seems impossible to replace, here is a link to a person who had a similar problem with a picture. My question is, how do I replace this module?
http://www.mnsportcompacts.net/forum...77#post1620777

[TxGreaseMonkey]

1. Disconnect negative battery cable, recording any radio codes first.

2. Remove hex-head machine screws (3), securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8mm nut driver.

3. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.

4. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver. A 1/4-inch drive magnetic bit holder (e.g. Wiha 52650), with a #2 Phillips head bit, works really well. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.

5. Remove rotor and leak cover.

6. Unfasten ICM wires, remove coil mounting screws (on distributors with a coil inside), and set coil aside. Trick: Removing the coil first, on distributors with a coil inside, improves access to the ICM.

7. Remove both screws securing heat sink to housing, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

8. Remove heat sink from distributor and unfasten both screws mounting ICM to heat sink, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

9. Clean connections with #240 abrasive cloth or steel wool.

10. Coat the back of the new ICM (or old ICM, if reusing) with a thin, even coat of silicone heat transfer compound. This special silicone grease increases heat transfer to the heat sink. Failure to apply silicone heat transfer compound will cause the ICM to quickly fail. Arctic Silver 5 is recommended by an AMHD member, which is available at Radio Shack.

If the ICM and the heat sink are simply placed together, the small air gaps (insulator) that naturally exist between them will inhibit heat transfer. By filling these gaps, the compound allows a direct path through which heat can travel. Failure to apply this grease is one reason why some Hondas suddenly die. Attention to detail makes a big difference with modern day electronics.

11. Mount ICM to heat sink and reinstall ICM, ICM terminal wires, coil, coil wires, leak cover, rotor, and distributor cap. Ensure female ICM connectors fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.

You may find it easier to remove the distributor from the engine and place it on a workbench or desk, in order to replace the ICM.