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    vspark's Avatar
    vspark Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Aug 2, 2011, 07:35 PM
    Troubleshooting honda civic 1995 won't crank?
    My car is a 95 civic ex, 1.5 ltr VTEC. Won't crank, can't jump it, but it will start when we pop the clutch and it will run just fine. I don't suspect battery or alternator, the windows work and lights are perfectly bright. I checked the inition relay and it appears to be fine although there is a clicking noise in that area when the key is turned. I took the starter off and had it tested at autozone, it worked fine. So, please someone give me next thing to try, ignition? What else is there? Thx, Scott
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Aug 3, 2011, 04:32 AM

    Remove and fully charge (or replace) the battery. Afterwards, clean the battery terminals and connections. Most auto parts stores will charge batteries for free.
    vspark's Avatar
    vspark Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Aug 4, 2011, 06:17 PM
    Okay, I did as you said, I reinstalled the starter and had the battery tested at the local AZ store. It is perfectly fine. It's not very old. Reinstalled it and crossed my fingers that I might have shook something up messing around with everything but am still getting the same thing. Only a faint clicking sound around the fuse box under the hood, but no crank. What now? Thx for your help and interest. Scott
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    Aug 4, 2011, 06:29 PM

    Check all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter.

    If the starter motor doesn't turn, but the starter solenoid (relay) "clicks" when the ignition switch is turned to Start, the problem is with the battery, starter solenoid, or starter motor connections.

    In order to check the solenoid, put the transmission in Park and remove the push-on connector from the solenoid “S” terminal. Connect a jumper lead (12 AWG), or preferably a remote starter switch, between the positive battery terminal and the exposed “S” terminal on the solenoid. If the starter motor now operates, the solenoid is fine and the problem is with the ignition switch, neutral start switch, or wiring. If the starter motor still does not operate, replace the solenoid.
    vspark's Avatar
    vspark Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Aug 4, 2011, 06:39 PM
    Here is a dumb question, but when AZ store tested the starter, and I watched the guy test it and it fired right up. It would have shown to be a bad solenoid at that point wouldn't it have?
    vspark's Avatar
    vspark Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Aug 4, 2011, 06:46 PM
    Okay, I connected a jumper lead and the starter turned the motor over, that was a first for me. Learning as I go. What now?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #7

    Aug 4, 2011, 07:05 PM

    The problem is with the ignition switch, neutral start switch, or wiring.
    vspark's Avatar
    vspark Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Aug 4, 2011, 07:09 PM
    Since it is manual, I assume it is not the neutral start switch, right? So what would you try next. Simply replay the ignition or could I run a jumper wire from the relay to the start and thus bypass any bad wiring if it starts when I turn the key?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #9

    Aug 5, 2011, 04:45 AM

    I'd check/replace the ignition switch for wear or pitting. Clean all connections.

    You still have a neutral starter switch on a manual transmission (have to push clutch in). It may be out of adjustment or bad--not a common problem, however.
    vspark's Avatar
    vspark Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #10

    Aug 5, 2011, 09:25 AM
    Just to clarify, when you say ignition switch, are you referring to the entire ignition switch harness or the key cylinder or both. Upon visual inspection of key cylinder and turning the key there doesn't seem to be any issues or hangups, the key turns smoothly. Do you recommend replacing the ignition switch harness next? I found one I can buy for $30 used vs. $300 new. What do you think?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #11

    Aug 5, 2011, 10:16 AM

    You may need to replace the ignition switch and harness. Check the old one first for wear, pitting, or melting. You don't need to replace the locking mechanism--that's a big job. I would buy a new ignition switch, if you go that route.
    vspark's Avatar
    vspark Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #12

    Aug 9, 2011, 09:17 AM
    I've replaced the ignition harness, but can't get the key to turn, what did if forget or not do. Have not replaced the key cylinder?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #13

    Aug 9, 2011, 11:32 AM

    1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

    2. Remove dashboard lower cover and knee bolster.

    3. Disconnect 5-P connector from under dash fuse box and 7-P connector from main wiring harness.

    4. Remove steering column covers.

    5. Insert key and turn it to "0".

    6. Remove two screws from switch and replace.
    jjelly's Avatar
    jjelly Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #14

    Sep 8, 2011, 11:56 PM
    I have the same car and had the same problem you are describing and it ended up being the netural safety switch
    masterofnone123's Avatar
    masterofnone123 Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #15

    Nov 4, 2012, 01:48 PM
    Take the plastic off the steering column and check the ignition connector. We had The same problem and my mechanic told me that is probably what it is. It worked for us.

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