[dannac]

I want to tackle this myself

... I purchased the 19 gal unit that has top in/outs and side in/outs.

With limited amount of headroom I will have to use side I/o instead of top I/o to give me room to fit pvc.

There look to be plugs in the side in/outs that take a 1/2" socket drive.

I tried putting a fair amount of pressure to those side plugs ... they did not budge.

I'm assuming this is regular threads ... where I would turn to left to loosen.

Some info/insight to this would be helpful.

Also the top cold water in has some type of blue ring approx 1/2" down from the top of the threads... is this to be removed and installed to the side inlet cold water in ?

Appreciate any info...

[speedball1]

Those should be 1/2" nylon TEMPORARY plugs. (should turn out with enough force,) and should be replaced with brass or galvanized or CPVC 1/2" plugs on top. [QUOTE][/I'm assuming this is regular threads... where I would turn to left to loosen. Remember! Righty/tighty, Lefty/loosey. In think the blue ring's showing where you connect the cold, Blue=cold. Red=hot. Good luck, Tom

Some info/insight to this would be helpful.

Also the top cold water in has some type of blue ring approx 1/2" down from e top of the threads... is this to be removed and installed to the side inlet cold water in ?QUOTE] Yes, the threads are regular iron pipe size.

[dannac]

Plugs are not nylon... shiny silver color.

After I get them removed , can I use them to plug the top in/outs... or should I get new ones ?

[massplumber2008]

Hi Dannac

You can use the old plugs... no problem! Just be sure to use teflon tape or pipe dope before screwing them in.

Also, most PVC pipe is not rated for hot water use, but a few of the newer PVC pipes are, so be sure to check that you have a PVC pipe approved for hot water use, OK?

I wouldn't worry about moving the blue or red plastic rings... just be sure you pipe cold to cold and hot to hot and you should be all set.

Finally, double check and see if you need to install a vacuum relief valve as many states require them to prevent backflow/siphoning of the water heater.

Finally, pipe the temperature and pressure relief valve to within about 6 inches of the floor for safety sake.

Good luck!

Mark

[dannac]

Thanks you both...

[dannac]

Well... have in place.
I know electricals not to code (been that way for 16 yrs)

Did not turn water on yet though, glue can says wait 12 to 24 hrs.

One more question...
Piping does feel very sturdy, should I tie/anchor the piping to the cab/counter some type of way.
(it was not for 16 yrs prior)

[massplumber2008]

A couple PLASTIC clips couldn't hurt, for sure.

For best overall result here, I'd recommend installing a junction box with a switch and wiring the wires sticking out in the junction box on top of the heater into the junction box on the heater... ;)

At a minimum, at least tape the electrical caps on... just in case one should somehow try to pop off, OK?

Good job!

Mark

[dannac]

... the junction box with switch, ohhhh wish I would have done that.

I'll tape caps and anchor pipe.

Thanks...