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bigbadboy312 · Jul 3, 2011, 08:48 AM

I have low pressure, even if only running one faucet in the house. Water pressure has never been "stellar" but has degraded recently. House was built in Dec '04, we purchased new in June '05 so components are not very old. Submersible pump, Pressure tank, Switch, etc... I "shook" the pressure tank and found no water in it. Pressure gauge on line reads about 23# (sticker on tank said it was pre-charged to 38#), Water filter has always had a lot of sediment build-up and had to be flushed weekly. I replaced with a larger filter and that has gotten better however instead of the black sediment we were getting in the filter, I am now getting a grey-ish more powdery colored build up on the filter. This "new" sediment showed up as the water pressure has decreased. The low water pressure is consistent throughout the house but is significantly worse if running a hose outside. The pump does not seem to be short-cycling as I turned the faucet on in the house and watched under the house at the pressure switch and gauge watching for fluctuation. I am not a plumber (obviously) but can usually figure this kind of thing out... I'm stumped.

hkstroud · Jul 3, 2011, 11:02 AM

Your tank should be pressurized to 2 lbs below the cut on setting of your pump switch. If you switch is set to come on at 40 lbs, your tank should be pressurized to 38 lbs. Your pressurize gauge should not go below your switch setting as long as the pump is working. There is normally a 20 lb. range between the cut on and the cut off pressures. Most people prefer a 30-50 setting or a 40-60 setting.

Remove the switch cover, turn on the water and note at what pressure the switch points close to start the pump. Turn off water and note at what pressure the switch points open to stop the pump.

bigbadboy312 · Jul 3, 2011, 02:24 PM

I see that I got one answer from hkstroud but, I can't find it anywhere? In my "dashboard" it shows one response from him but under the topic itself, says "no answers yet." I researched hkstrouds recent answers and it shows part of his response but won't show me the whole thing. Am I doing something wrong?

bigbadboy312 · Jul 3, 2011, 02:26 PM

Never mind, I see it now that I put this response in... weird.

bigbadboy312 · Jul 3, 2011, 02:38 PM

Ok, so I spoke to a local plumber and said to try turning off the well pump, draining all the water from the line at the tank, pump the airpressure up to 28# with a tire pump and then turn everything back on. My pressure at the in-line gauge is at 36# until turning on the water then drops to 30# and stays there until the water is turned back of again inside the house. Water pressure at the faucett is unfortunately still very low.

hkstroud · Jul 3, 2011, 05:10 PM

The precharge pressure in the tank must match the cut on setting of the switch. If your precharge is set to 38 (you now say 36) and you cut in pressure is 20 and your cut off pressure is 40, you are not going to be storing more than a couple gallons of water in your tank. After you use that your water the pressure and volume will be determined by the capabilities of the pump.

Do as I previously requested so we will know what the cut on and cut off settings of the switch are. Then we will know how to pressurize the tank. You may also decide to increase the switch settings.

bigbadboy312 · Jul 3, 2011, 06:14 PM

My pressure at the in-line gauge is at 36# until turning on the water then drops to 30# and stays there until the water is turned back off again inside the house. I never "heard" any clicking or switching going on during this process. I stayed in front of the gauge the entire time, just had my wife turn the water on and off at my request. Under the switch cover looks new, no rust or corrosion which surprised me as the gauge face, ball valve, and pipe plug at tee are all rusted to some degree.

hkstroud · Jul 3, 2011, 08:01 PM

Assuming you did that with the switch cover removed you should see the mechanism of the switch move. You should hear it also but certainly you will see it.

If the pressure gauge shows 36 lbs with no water being used, the cut off setting of the switch must be 36lbs. That leads me to believe that the settings are 16-36. That is not very much by most people preference. Try again. While you have the switch cover remove take a pic and post it.

bigbadboy312 · Jul 4, 2011, 08:15 AM

Removed the switch cover again and ran same test. I had my son turn on the hose outside and back off again. Pressure started at 34# on the gauge and dropped to 22# when the water was on. When the water was turned back off, pressure returned to 34#. I never saw the points open or any other movement from the mechanism inside the switch cover. I am unable to post a pic of the switch, we lost our camera on the trip we just returned from. Is there a way to test the switch itself? It is a "Square D" switch. Or do you think it is an issue with the switch at all?

hkstroud · Jul 4, 2011, 08:51 AM

Now you are beginning to frighten me. Only two reasons I can think of for not seeing movement in switch mechanism. One the port to the switch is clogged with debris. The other is points in switch fused together. Either one means pump is running all the time.
Turn off breaker to well. Open faucet or drain tank. Remove switch and check pipe and port of switch for debris. Use screwdriver to manually open points and insure that they have not been fused together.

bigbadboy312 · Jul 4, 2011, 12:52 PM

Well (no pun intended), it gets more interesting now. I removed the switch and found no blockage in the piping or in the inlet to the switch. I also found that the points move very freely and are not fused together. I put it all back together and still have the same results. Could this switch be faulty and caused the pump to run constantly, thus wearing it to the point of almost no water pressure?

hkstroud · Jul 4, 2011, 01:37 PM

Could be. Switch points must be closed in order for you to be getting any water. Pressure should be going the maximum pump can create unless you have a blow off valve some where.

Conceivable that you could have a leak in well pipe some where that is relieving pressure. That would be consistent with you never having the desired pressure. Open pitless adapter or well head and see if you hear water flowing back down well (while pump is running). May have to pull well pipe to know for sure.

I think it is more likely to have a leak than for pump to be worn out. They are made to last a long time as long as water is available to keep it cool. You must have a very high electric bill.

Replace the switch with a 40-60 switch, just to be sure. Then check well pipe.

jlisenbe · Jul 4, 2011, 07:22 PM

I don't think your switch is the problem. All it can do is turn on the pump when pressure is low and it seems to be doing that. If you can't find a significant leak, then it sounds like a pump problem to me.