[FranciscoJ]

I framed the bathroom area in my basement. I made a big (possibly detrimental) assumption in doing so. As can be seen in the photos, I have two floor drains (at least that's what I presume them to be). The hole (with all the gravel) didn't seem to have any trap/pipe inside. I dug out 6" at least without any pipes in the middle.

The big drain is the toilet drain I presume. The small one (which I originally assumed to be a simple pipe access plug) might be the bathtub drain pipe. I assumed the original idea due to if that were in fact the bathtub drain, it would be right at bottom of staircase, therefore requiring entrance into bathroom area through the utility room (adjacent to "bathroom area").

What I need is actual confirmation as to what each one of these are. Also, what exactly are the pipe protruding from main drain pipes for? And finally, does the trap for a bathtub have to be set into the slab? Or can it be connected to one of the protruding pipes?

[massplumber2008]

Hi Francisco...

See the picture below. The sink pipe and toilet pipe are marked in the pic.

The hole in the ground needs to be dug out deeper... you should find the tub drain in that hole.

If there is a PTRAP in the hole then that is great... if no PTRAP then one should be installed in the hole... but read on first!

With that being said about the hole in the floor, I do see issues even if you find a pipe in the hole as the hole should really be on the other end of the tub so you can access the tub drain to hook the tub drain up AND, if needed, to change out the tub drain in the future, so this may be a major issue OR you really have a SHOWER DRAIN THERE in the hole.

If a shower drain was intended, and I believe it was, you will find a 2" drain in the hole. You will need to install a 2" PTRAP and connect it to a shower pan. Here, this drain won't need to be accessed in the future (if connected properly) so the drain could remain where it is or at the least in the general area.

Dig the hole deeper and see what you find... may need to go a foot or so deeper.

Finally, I also see a cleanout cover there in the floor (flush cap). You want to keep this accessible for future cleanout if/when needed. To be sure this is a cleanout, unscrew the flush cap... should be no standing water. If you find standing water then this could be the tub drain also... but I HIGHLY doubt that as this is not common practice.

Start here and then pop back and confirm what you find, OK?

Mark

[hkstroud]

..

[massplumber2008]

I'll tell you right now, Harold, It's too close to the wall, for sure!

Hopefully, Francisco will return!

[FranciscoJ]

You guys were right! I already removed the wall. Fixing it for toilet placement is only going to take 10-15min tomorrow... very easy fix. That gravel hole IS the bathtub drain spot. Unfortunately, it's the single most annoying location... lol

So, the moving wall issue is not a issue at all. My only thing now is where / how to connect the tub. I can either switch the location of the sink / tub, or lift the tub up a bit and drain it into the main stack. I am not certain about the possibility of piping over to the drain pipe.

[hkstroud]

I can either switch the location of the sink / tub, or lift the tub up a bit and drain it into the main stack. I am not certain about the possibility of piping over to the drain pipe.

I don't think I understand what you are saying.

Here is what I think I would do. Maybe Mark has a better solution.

Cut a 3' X 3' piece of plywood. Put it in the corner over the tub drain hole, tight up against both walls. Sit the tub in place over the plywood. Make sure tub is tight against both walls. Draw an outline of the tub drain hole. Mark the edge of the tub on the plywood.
Remove the tub and plywood. Assemble and install the tub shoe, overflow pipe and tee connecting the two. Out in the opening, sit the tub on the plywood. Align side of the tube with the line on the plywood. Align the head of the tub with the edge of the plywood. Use a level to make sure the head of the tub is plumb with the edge of the plywood.

Mark where the drain pipe, out of the tee, would pass through the plywood. Make sure overflow pipe is plumb both directions.

Drill a hole just big enough for a pipe to pass through plywood.

Dry assemble trap with a short piece of pipe sticking out of the intake of the trap. Pipe should extend a few inches above the floor. Adjust trap so you can put plywood back in the corner with pipe passing through the hole.
Remove plywood and make witness marks on each fitting and the pipe so you can take things apart, glue and reassemble in the same position. Measure from center of tub overflow hole to floor. Assemble and install tub shoe, overflow and drain pipe to that measurement above the floor.

Carefully sit tub in place, connect drain flange and overflow cover.

[massplumber2008]

Hi guys...

As long as there is access from the back of the tub to tighten the nut(s)after dropping the tub/tub waste and overflow assembly into place then I would do as Harold suggested. As a plumber we wouldn't use the plywood, but it sounds like a great idea to be 100% sure you will "hit the target" when setting the tub.

Good luck with this and pop back when you have more questions, OK?

Mark

[massplumber2008]

PS:

You want 12" from the center of your toilet drain pipe to the face of the rough stud wall. This will allow you to buy any "normal" toilet and usually gives a nice tight fit!

Mark

[hkstroud]

Mark,
Guess I'm thinking you set the tube waste and overflow assembly at the correct height and tighten the nut before setting the tub. I have mis-measured enough in my life time to know to use a "pattern" when ever possible.
Another approach might be that since you are going to have to cut out most of the bottom plate anyway for the drain pipe, just cut out the plate over the hole and remove the stud between the edge of the tub and the drain. After setting the tub put the stud back in place. That way you should have access to the tighten up the drain nut.