[moosehead26]

I removed a pre-existing recirc pump installed a new one, now I can here it in the bedroom and now it takes awhile to get hot to my kitchen sink also is there a piggyback thermostat

[massplumber2008]

Hi Moosehead...

First thing to check is the direction you pointed the circulator in. More often than not when we get this type of complaint it is simply that the circulator got installed backwards.

Otherwise, if the circulator was installed correctly , I'd start to wonder how you cleared the air out of the recirculating water line? If you have air in the line and it got caught up at the pump it would very likely also present as above.

My guess is that one of these is your issue. Let us know what you think...

Mark

[moosehead26]

I have it installed with the arrow towards the drain on the water heater, how do you get the air out how do you solve this problem and do you think there is a piggyback thermostat

Thanks mark

[massplumber2008]

OK... sounds like the circulator got installed properly.

Does the circulator have any shutoffs near it to isolate the unit? If not, it can be hard to get all the air out of the recirc. Line, but it can be done.

BRB

[moosehead26]

Water heater drain then the recirc pump then a shut off gate valve

[massplumber2008]

I was hoping water heater drain, shutoff and then circulator... UGH!

Best case, of course would be a shutoff on each side of the circulator.

With a shutoff located between the circulator and the water heater drain you can force the air out through the circulator flange and that usually fixes the issue.

With a shutoff located like you have you can only force air out of the line from the water heater drain end... need to empty air from the recirc line, too, however.

That's why two shutoffs are best... can isolate and bleed through the circulator flange on both ends of the recirc. Line.

OK, all that being said, shut off the power and then get a large bucket and set it under the circulator and then crack the circulator flange nuts on one end of the circulator and let water flow into the bucket. BE CAREFUL AS HOT WATER WILL BE POURING OUT HERE!

Now, you just need to empty a few buckets or so of water from the line. Eventually the air will be forced out of the line.. even from the far end. Tighten nuts at the flange and test it all out. Turn power back on and see if water that returns through the circulator gets hot (could take minutes to get it going).

Otherwise, install another shutoff on the other side of the circulator, refill the system and purge air that way.

Let me know if you have questions...

[moosehead26]

I will try that the only problem is that the pump is soldered in


And this would cause it to constantly run or is it suppose to


OK thank you I appreciate your time

Dan

[massplumber2008]

If the thermostat doesn't get satisfied, i.e. hot water doesn't return through the circulator, it would cause the circulator to run non-stop.

You may need to install a new shutoff and a boiler drain between both shutoffs. Then bleed both ends through the boiler drain.

Best bet there above!


See, when you turn water on to a recirc. Line without isolation valves the water pushes from the end of the recirc. Line trying to get back to the heater AND water pushes out from the water heater trying to fill the pipe. In between this equal push from both ends air gets trapped and the circulator basically tries to pull on air... not going to happen. Need to get air out.

Hope that helped explain it bit more...

[mygirlsdad77]

Hi all.

IF you were lucky enough to have a shut off on the inlet and outlet on top of the water heater, and a washer box in the home, this trick works nicely for purging recirc line also, (done it a few times). Here's what you could do in this case. Shut off inlet and outlet valves on water heater. Hook washer hose between hot and cold in washer box. Make sure no other fixtures are turned on in the home. Then open hot and cold at washer box, then open drain of water heater with hose going to an area of drainage. This will allow the cold water to actually force through the recirc line and out the water heater drain while keeping enough pressure to keep the water heater from draining. Let it purge for a few minutes, then shut water heater drain, shut hot and cold in washer box, open inlet and outlet of water heater, run hot water for a few minutes at the nearest fixture to blead any air that may have entered the tank, and you are all set to go.

Just another reason to justify a shut off on both the inlet and outlet of a water heater. Hope this helps someone out there.

Let me know if this makes sense guys, cause it works like a charm on the recirc systems we install.

[hkstroud]

Presumably the pump is bolted in to a couple of flanges. Try loosening a connection to bleed the line (with pressure on).

[massplumber2008]

Harold... same thing I recommended to start.

In post #7, Dan said the pump is actually soldered in place... no flanges.

Dan needs to do what I suggested at post #6 or could try MGD77s approach if he's set up for it.

Lee (MGD77), great idea as long as shutoffs are in correct placement! Nice additon to the answer.

[hkstroud]

Sorry Mark,

I screw up, didn't realize I was on page two.

[moosehead26]

Right on I got the air out now its quite, one other problem, I had a laing timer circ, took that one out and installed a grundfos circ now its seems to take the hot water 10 seconds longer than the one I had in please help
Thanks

[massplumber2008]

Does this grundfos have a timer? If so, double check the settings.

Check that all shut offs are fully opened.

Is the recirc. Pipe hot along its entire length when called for... please check entire length?

Back to you...

[moosehead26]

Yeah all the valves are open and the pipes are hot, do you think I need a check valve in place even if my old one didn't have one and no there is no timer