[shacall]

Thanks Harold. The piping has a nut, with a lip/flare on the end of the pipe (so the nut won't slip off). These nuts screw onto the exterior threads of the PRV. I won't be using the interior threads of the PRV, only the exterior threads.

I'm just overly confused with the terminology. What is a union connection? Is that the existing nut that is on the pipe?

I just know that I need EXTERIOR threads on the PRV. I'm just not sure which Watts model I need (N45B Water Pressure Reducing Valves , Water Pressure Reducing Valves - Standard Capacity, Water Safety & Flow Control - Watts).

Thanks,
Gary

[hkstroud]

Show me a picture of your valve. All you need is a valve to fit the size pipe you have.

[shacall]

Unfortunately, I reinstalled the PRV after the Home Depot one was a tad too long. So, I only have a picture of it installed. The PRV is 1".

MobileMe Gallery

Does this help? You'll see the union connectors (?? ) on both sides of the PRV. I simply loosened those, and the PRV popped right out.

Thanks!

[hkstroud]

File appear to be password protected. To post pictures, convert to JPEG, click on "Go Advance" button below "Answer this Question" block, browse to find picture, click open, click upload.

How long is a tad to long?

[shacall]

Sorry about that. Hopefully this will show up:

Thanks!
Gary

[hkstroud]

Show me a pic of the pipe to the left.

[KISS]

Unions vs. Couplings

Couplings: Require space to connect pieces of pipe/tube together.

Repair Couplings - They are missing the stop in the middle of the fitting, but it still requires that the fitting be able to move out of the way.

Unions - Generally used as a point of disconnect for appliances. They require no additional space to remove. They are also used when items need to be replaced periodically like water meters and PRV's. Usually two wrenches is all that's required to be able to remove them.

[hkstroud]

Get a 1" Sharkbite coupling from Home Depot. Cut house side pipe (left side) at a convenient place. Install new PRV to street side pipe, install cut off piece of pipe to PRV. Slip Sharkbite coupling onto house side pipe. Measure the amount of piping that has to be removed from the cut off piece of pipe to fit in Sharkbite. Remove cut off piece of pipe from PRV, cut off the excess pipe, insert in Sharkbite then reconnect to PRV.

[shacall]

Just wanted to thank everyone for your help and fast replies. It really is appreciated. Unfortunately, I'm leaving out of town and won't be able to get back to this until Tuesday. I'm going to try and run down to Ace Hardware and Lowe's, to see if any of their PRVs will work. If not, I'll get one ordered.

Thanks again - I'll check back on Tuesday.

[fersolavi]

Shacall:
I have same problem at home which is about 50 m below the city average. At nigh when no body consumes water I have all the water coulmn for myself and pressure is very high.

I was looking for static pressure regulator but my cdriteria tells me that I wount be able to find it, because it is not possible to do it.

You will always have the whole system at 110 psi while no water is being consumed. Your regulator has nothing wrong and will only work for water running though the tubing.

Whatever you do, as soon as you close the faucets or any leak, pressure will rise up to 110psi.

The only way is to have an elevated tank, fill it and consume from the tank. The money you need might be quite high but there is no other way. You may use an underground tank and a pump also.

Sorry for my english

[jlisenbe]

Fer, I think you are wrong on that idea. A person could simply obstruct the line coming in to the house to lower pressure when water is being used. My understanding is that the PRV regulates pressure on the house side of the valve and will not allow it to get any higher than the pressure it is set for.

[hkstroud]

pressure will rise up to 110psi

I also disagree. A PRV wouldn't be much good if the above statement were true.

P.S.
This is a two year old post.

[fersolavi]

Friends,
I am an electronic engineer and could not argue very much on this subject. However some criteria on fluid mechanics tell me that any regulator will actually regulate fluid pressure on the consumer side while water is flowing.

I am in trouble here at home because water pressure increases very much in the evening. I realized only after two severe leaks appeared. Fortunately both were in the garden and for the time being, I am closing the main valve at night because I am afraid of having some leaks in the interior of my house

If you know of any device that regulates pressure at the consumer side and it remains on that value some time after we close all consumer points, please let me know so I can buy it.
Regards

[massplumber2008]

Fersolavi

As everyone here has been stating a PRV (pressure regulating valve) keeps water pressure from exceeding a set pressure in your home.

Here, if you set the PRV at say 65 P.S.I. then water pressure coming into your home will not exceed that pressure.

To test this and to confirm/set the pressure at the PRV you would use a hose bib pressure gauge at an outside faucet.

Any questions just let us know, OK?

Mark

[moengnr]

Ferslovi, no problem with your English, having read all these posts, you had a very logical answer. Regulators will not control the pressure in a system unless there is flow, no exceptions. Regulators help minimize damage to quick shutting valves like dishwashers and washing machines. They also reduce the velocity of water flow which maximizes pipe life Most systems will have high static pressure which is always present whenever water is not flowing.

[massplumber2008]

I understand fluid mechanics as well as the next guy, but you guys couldn't be out in the field working with these PRVs very much! Here, no matter what you guys say, if I run water from a high pressure system, say 110 P.S.I. as Ferslovi presented, and I have the PRV set (and confirmed) not to exceed 65 P.S.I. then the system, whether open and flowing (dynamic) or in the closed/non-flowing position (static) will NOT exceed 65 P.S.I. (plus or minus a couple P.S.I.) unless the PRV is defective.

How do I know this with certainty? I know this as I set every PRV using a hose bib pressure gauge on every job I install a PRV on as I presented in my last post above. If I set the PRV at 65 P.S.I and the street pressure is 110 P.S.I, the hose bib pressure gauge doesn't exceed 65 P.S.I. whether I run the water or leave the water standing (all valves closed).

Argue if you want, but your argument has "leaks in it", I assure you!

Mark

[hkstroud]

Mark,
What happens if the incoming pressure spikes to 140 then returns to 110?

[massplumber2008]

You know, Harold, I've simply never seen a situation like that...

In my experience, if I set a PRV for a certain pressure, it maintains that pressure within 2-3 P.S.I. every time... static or dynamic pressure!

Mark

[jlisenbe]

Guys, perfect example of a PRV is the valve on the oxygen cylinder of an acetylene torch. The cylinder itself is pressurized at something like 2,000# when full. The valve takes that down to whatever you set it at, but way less than a hundred. If this idea of "it only works when fluid is being used" was correct, you would have 2,000 psi build up on the torch hoses every time you stopped using it. That simply does not happen. The PRV works whether oxygen is being drawn or not.

[massplumber2008]

Absolutely agree with you Jlisenbe!