[Mardimus]

Ive read through these forums for the last couple weeks and seem to still have a problem getting my Civic to start. I really want to try to fix this on my own but I seem to have found myself at the end of the line. Any advice would be of great appreciation. My problem started when I was driving down the road. I was doing close to 75 MPH and listening to the radio. My speedometer started to drop. I hit the gas and nothing was happening. My radio seemed to still work fine. Lights worked, etc. I pulled over and then my car finally hit 0 MPH and then the engine died. Electrical still worked, i.e.. Radio, headlights etc. After reading through the forums I took some steps listed below and now I am at a dead end.

1. Turned ignition to II and the CEL comes on and then goes off after a few seconds.
2. Fuel Pump turns on.
-I also get one click sound.
3. No spark from plugs.
4. Checked the distributer.
-Took the ICM and coil to Autozone
-Both checked out Okay
-Replaced Cap and rotor just to be sure.
5. Checked Spark Plug Wires and they check out as well
6. Tried to check error codes using a paperclip method in a 2p wire. But the CEL would only stay on instead of blink codes. If I take the paperclip out it then goes out.

Removed distributer cap, turned ignition key and saw that the rotor in the distributer was not turning.

Checked to see if timing belt was broken by taking the cover off and turning ignition key on. The Camshaft timing belt pulley turns and the belt seems to make this happen. If it was broke would it turn at all?

So in a nut shell I think that I have covered all that I have done.

One question I have is I went to use a multimeter to check my fuses under the hood and I couldn't get any readings. Im not that good with a multimeter so I don't even think that I was doing it correctly. Maybe this is where I need a bit of help.

Thanks to those that read this post and I do appreciate any insight. Thanks.


Cheers!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Since your rotor is not turning, it is either a broken timing belt or a broken camshaft, which would be very unusual. This needs to be your focus, at this point. Timing belts should be changed every 90,000 miles or 7 years, whichever comes first.

To test your fuses with a multimeter, set the meter to DCV, turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), and touch the red and black test leads to the test points on the fuse.

[Mardimus]

Ill check. Thanks for your help.

[Mardimus]

So I took the Timing belt cover off and cranked the engine a few times and there was nothing wrong with the timing belt. All checked out. However when I checked the Camshaft it was definitely not working like it should. The two closest to the timing belt were turning and then the other two did not move at all. I would say that the camshaft is broken. How do I replace it or should I have someone to replace it for me because it may be a bit to complicated? Is it something I can do with out messing something up big time? Let me know what you all think. Thanks. Is this a big deal that this broke? How did this happen? Did it mess other parts of my engine up? Sorry so many questions but it a major concern for me as well as a learning process!

Cheers!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

This is not something I would recommend you tackle on your own. Personally, I would take it to Honda and let them fix it. There's more to doing this properly than meets the eye. Yes, it is a very big deal that this broke. Camshafts and valves are the last on the oil train and the first to go, when there's inadequate lubrication. You need to seriously review your preventive maintenance program, because camshafts breaking is a very uncommon event. Personally, I would recommend you only use full synthetic 5W-30 engine oil in the future--it offers a substantial margin of safety. People really can't afford not to use full synthetic lubricants. You will also want to check the oil pump and pickup. Yes, you also run the risk that this damaged valves and pistons.

[Mardimus]

Another quick question if I may...
I called a local japanese auto import mechanic shop and I explained to them what had happened. They flat out told me that I had to replace my whole engine because my valves would definitely be damaged. They never checked the engine themselves and thy also quoted me something close to $2100.00 (includes install and some other things i.e. water pump etc.) for a japanese import to replace it. Is there a possibility that I only busted the crankshaft and not anything else and is there a way I can test or check my valves to maybe see if they are okay and I can only replace the broken part? Do I really need a whole new engine?

Thanks again for all your help but I really am trying to get this badboy up and running. I have read a lot of these forums and literature to educate myself and I am learning quite a bit. Thanks again.

Cheers!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

You shouldn't need a new engine--just a new head (including camshaft and valves), head gasket, timing belt, and water pump. If in doubt, get multiple opinions.

[Mardimus]

Thanks TXGREASMONKEY. I appreciate all your help. It has been a great learning experience.

Cheers!