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    thommas's Avatar
    thommas Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jul 31, 2010, 04:19 PM
    Vent shower drain
    Hi,
    I am redoing my bathroom and need to install shower drain about 55in from the vertical stack.

    Do I need to vent or can I run the 2" drain pipe directly from the shower drain to the stack?

    I live in NYC.

    Thanks.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #2

    Jul 31, 2010, 04:42 PM

    Do I need to vent or can I run the 2" drain pipe directly from the shower drain to the stack?
    My code, (SPC) says you'll be just fine draining to the stack, UNLESS,
    There's a fixture or fixtures draining intro that stack from above. Then you'll have to vent the shower.
    If that's the case I would use the lavatory vent and wet vent the shower, (see image). Good luck, Tom
    Attached Images
     
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    thommas Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jul 31, 2010, 05:24 PM
    Tom, thank you very much for the rapid reply.

    There are no fixtures draining from above. The 4in pipe in the vertical stack is dedicated exclusively to the shower. The lav and WC go into their own dedicated 4in pipes in that vertical stack. Here is a plan:
    Name:  shower_drain.jpg
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    I am not sure if this is something that applies to my case but I found a this in the NYC plumbing code:
    Name:  floor_drainl_vent.jpg
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    I read that UPC and IBC allow 5 and 8 ft lengths.

    1. My first question is -- is this distance calculated counting in the trap or just the length of 2" drain pipe? If I am limited to 4ft this could be critical.

    2. Second question is -- NYC code allows 10ft for the floor drains. If I am doing a tiled shower flor, would my drain be considered a floor drain?

    Thanks once again. Your help is very greatly appreciated.


    Fyi, a link to the NYC plumbing code:confused:
    New York City Plumbing Code
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #4

    Aug 1, 2010, 06:15 AM

    1. My first question is -- is this distance calculated counting in the trap or just the length of 2" drain pipe? If I am limited to 4ft this could be critical.
    The distance is taken from the wier of the trap (the very back, not the entire trap) along the developed length to the joint of the sanitary tee,
    However you say,
    There are no fixtures draining from above.
    Doesn't your lavatory enter the stack above the shower? Where does the toilet enter the stack in relationship to the shower?> Does the toilet have its own vent?
    If I am doing a tiled shower flor, would my drain be considered a floor drain?
    No! It would be considered a showered drai,
    WE have a plumber from around your area. I'll ask him to take a look at your problem. Good luck, Tom
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #5

    Aug 1, 2010, 07:28 AM

    Hi guys...

    Most important Thommas is to answer Tom's questions, "Doesn't your lavatory enter the stack above the shower? Where does the toilet enter the stack in relationship to the shower? Does the toilet have its own vent?"

    I'm also wondering if everything connects into one massive fitting with multiple outlets. Tell us more here.

    Interesting in the NYC code is that an 1.5" pipe/trap is actually allowed for a shower drain..I've never heard of that before! I would still stick with 2"... ;)

    Now, in my area you cannot treat a floor drain as a shower. You can wet vent a floor drain and you can, of course, wet vent a shower, but we MUST have some kind of vent on all floor drains. I would call a local plumbing inspector on this one... just to double check... OK?

    Finally, if you are using 2" pipe and 55" or less away from the vent and you measure the developed length as mentioned by Tom (I'm betting somewhere around 50") I think you'll be just fine without adding a vent closer to the shower. I mean...even inspectors don't pull out a tape measure and measure developed length.. UNLESS you make them mad... :):)

    Back to you...

    Mark
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    thommas Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Aug 1, 2010, 09:06 AM
    Thanks, Tom. Thanks, Mark. I really appreciate your help.

    I am sticking with 2in pipe and if I don't have to count in the trap the developed length should be 4 ft or less.

    The toilet is on completely separate line on the opposite wall from the shower.

    The lav does connect to the same stack but has its own pipe. The stack looks like this:
    Name:  stacks_bottom.jpg
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    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #7

    Aug 1, 2010, 09:17 AM

    If the lavatory's draining into the stack above the shower connection then the shower wet vents though the lavatory. Are wet vents allowed in your area?
    Back tom you, Tom
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    thommas Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Aug 1, 2010, 09:25 AM
    Ps
    I removed the 1.5" pipe and trap since i took the picture in my previous post and will be starting fresh from the vertical stack. that threaded fitting in the stack shown below is 2".
    Name:  cast_iron_only.jpg
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    Yes, tom. The code allows wet vents.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #9

    Aug 1, 2010, 09:41 AM

    If wet vents are permitted then your shower's good to go. Convert to PVC from the threaded fitting you've pictured. Let me know if you need more. Tom
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    thommas Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #10

    Aug 1, 2010, 09:45 AM

    Thanks, Tom for the good news!

    Only, PVC is not allowed in NYC in structures over 5 stories high. It will have to be galvanized steel.

    Thanks again.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #11

    Aug 1, 2010, 09:52 AM

    Thanks for the information.
    I'll keep it in mind. Tom
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #12

    Aug 1, 2010, 10:09 AM

    All set as Tom said! If you use galvanized use teflon tape AND pipe dope at each thread to guarantee no leakers... ;)

    If copper is allowed, although more expensive, I'd recommend using it if you can solder good... more flexibility in getting this done.

    Mark
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    thommas Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    Aug 1, 2010, 10:35 AM
    Tom, while I am at it, I have a quick question about replacing main valves.

    I am planning to install compression ball valves in place of old, leaky main valves. Main hot and cold brass pipes are located on the wall opposite of the lav and shower drain. Can I get rid of the existing valves, run type L copper pipe through the floor and install main shut off valves on the opposite wall where they can be hidden by vanity? Or do I have to replace the valves on the main hot and cold brass pipe in the same location where they are now?

    Here is a photo of existing situation (new copper pipe in the photo is just dry fitted) :
    Name:  main-H-and-C-pipes.jpg
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    thommas's Avatar
    thommas Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #14

    Aug 1, 2010, 10:45 AM

    Thanks, Mark. Type K or L copper tubing is OK for drains. I am a bit nervous about soldering (don't have much experience with it) but might be worth the effort and price if pre threaded lenghts of steel will not fit...

    Thanks for a good suggestion.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #15

    Aug 1, 2010, 12:30 PM

    Actually, type M is just fine for drains. If you do go copper, practice soldering a cheap fitting or two out of place.

    Also, note that you can presolder a lot of stuff out of the joist bay and then drop it in after the pipes/fittings cool!Keep us posted!

    I'm off to play with my kid right now. I will address the shutoffs if Tom doesn't pop in to answer your question about the shutoffs... OK?

    Mark
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    thommas Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #16

    Aug 1, 2010, 12:51 PM
    Thanks, Mark.

    The code actually requires type K or L for drain. Nothing is cheap in NYC.

    I'll be standing by for the valves question. Thanks again.

    Have fun playing with your kid!

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