[chonchonater]

Hello, I am new to this forum and I need your help. I would like to remove my existing tub and replace it with a Dreamline shower base. The tub is on a concrete floor. Does the shower base need to be leveled?
Thanks,
Ray

[massplumber2008]

Hi Chonchonater...

Simply put... YES... a shower base must be level.

Although your floor is unlevel it is not to tough to level the shower base. The trick is to install a bedding substrate such as structolite or mortar. Here, you'd set the shower base into the bedding substrate and level the base from front to back and side to side using wood shims until all dries.

I recommend the structolite if you can find it as it is lightweight, easy to work with and dries overnight.

Finally, all that being said, you must check the installation instructions of the particular shower base you are installing... never know what each manufacturer recommends... ;)


Any questions... let me know.

Mark

[chonchonater]

Thanks Mark,
If the existing shower/tub was already in place could'nt I just remove it and put the shower pan in. The house is 12 years old with a concrete foundation.The pan that I have in mind is the Dreamline shtr-1136601.
I would appreciate your expertise.
Thanks,
Ray

[massplumber2008]

Hi Ray...

The answer is really manufacturer specific here. If the shower pan manufacturer says install it in a bedding substrate then you MUST install it in structolite or similar bedding substrate... no ifs and or buts... ;)

A few manufacturers and I mean very few don't want a bedding substrate... they usually want a construction adhesive or similar product to adhere the pads of the pan to the floor. This type of pan causes issues, however, when it comes to leveling the pan on old concrete floors.

Hey! From experience, I'm telling you the shower pan can feel like a plastic shower floor that creeps and creeks when you step into it or it can feel solid, more stone like if you bed it. The major gain is that it also assures a better tile job or a better shower surround installation!

Check the manufacturer installation manual...

Mark

[chonchonater]

Thanks Mark,
The 3 walls are tiled. I would like to install a 36"x60" shower pan.

[massplumber2008]

Hey! Plenty of tricks to share here as I have done a whole lot of these... :)

Do you guys have an angle grinder or a reciprocating saw (sawzall)? Let me know.

I'm in and out all weekend... chat soon.

[chonchonater]

Mark,
We do have a sawzall and a angle grinder. Please share your knowledge.
Ray

[massplumber2008]

Hey Ray... I'm off to play with my kid for awhile. I'll pop back in when I get back and post some helpful info.

Check back around 8:00ish eastern time.

[chonchonater]

Thanks,Mark.
Ray

[massplumber2008]

OK... I'm going to assume that you don't have old concrete and steel lathe walls under the tiles. If you do you will probably be better to hire a pro. Here... ;)

Here's how I start these...

I plug the drain in the tub to keep the drain from getting clogged during this demolition.

I put on my safety goggles.

Then I break out say 6 tiles from the first two/three rows of tiles using a hammer. Here, I crack the tiles with direct blows from the hammer and then I use a dull wood chisel and a screwdriver to peel the cracked tiles off the wall. Once you get a couple tiles cleared you use the wood chisel and the rest usually pop off pretty easy.

You may find the wall is rotted up higher than two/three rows here... if so, you go up another row or more.

Once you know how high up you need to go you remove the tile from that row of tiles all around the tub. You can use an angle grinder (and a mask and plenty of ventilation)... this makes a real mess. You can also break the tiles out by hand as you did the others... this is my preferred choice in my customer's home... less dust is always best!

Once you have the tiles out and are left with a row of old tiles on the wall in perfect condition you will want to cut the wall so it is half the height of the new tile below the old tile. This will allow you to mate the new wall material up to the old wall material without placing the wall seam at a grout joint... <<<--------THIS IS CRITICAL!

You'll remove the old wall material as above and then disconnect the old tub drain assembly (cut off with sawzall). Pull the tub forward four inches or so and then you should be able to stand it up and pull it up and out... this requires removing wall board in front of the tub. OR, more than likely you will need to break it out with a sledgehammer!

Install the new shower pan as recommended by the manufacturer... you will need to adapt to a 2" shower strainer. You already know I'm a fan of the structolite bedding substrate, but check with the shower pan manufacturer.

Install hardibacker/cement board to walls using alkali-resistant screws to meet old wall material. Keep the cement board a 1/4"-3/8" or so off the shower pan.

Tape all joints including the corners with a thinset mortar as recommended by the tile manufacturer that makes your tiles. You'll want to fill that 1/4"-3/8" void between the tub and the backerboard with thinset as well... some people use a flexible silicone here... up to you.

Let it all dry and then start setting your tile as recommended by tile chosen.

There... that should get you started... let me know what you think... :)

Mark

[chonchonater]

Wow,
Thanks Mark. I will let you know if I need any further assistance and how it turns out.
Ray