[schwarzy]

Speedball or anybody available, I need help!! I have been reading these posts and have learned so much and now think I have the correct lingo to ask a question.

I have a 2nd floor shower that has been leaking, and by the looks of the closet underneath, has been leaking prior to moving into this house. The shower drain is a No-caulk Oatley drain #42099. I ran a hose down the drain and no leak, so I pinpointed the leak to: rubber gasket and/ or pvc compression ring, or seal between drain and floor pan. The drain is tight to floor pan and there is no movement, so that is good. I cleaned up the old caulk between drain and floor pan and have applied new silicone caulk.
Next, I purchased a new Oatley No-caulk drain to use the NEW rubber gasket and NEW pvc compression ring. Now I have a few questions about installing these 2 pieces.


FIRST QUESTION. I am able to move stubup (which is glued into ptrap below) RIGHT to LEFT. As well as UP and DOWN. Is this normal?

SECOND QUESTION. When inserting the rubber gasket over 2" stubup, should I pull up the stubup and slide gasket down as tight as possible?

THIRD QUESTION: Where should I apply silicone caulk on rubber gasket and / or compression ring? (Or don't apply caulk, which is why they call it NO-Caulk drain. )

Thanks so much for all the info on this site!!

[speedball1]

[Q

FIRST QUESTION. I am able to move stubup (which is glued into ptrap below) RIGHT to LEFT. As well as UP and DOWN. Is this normal?

The "P" trap should be strapped down and secured under the shower drain. Make sure you have slope on the drain line when you secure the trap.

SECOND QUESTION. When inserting the rubber gasket over 2" stubup, should I pull up the stubup and slide gasket down as tight as possible?

By this time you should have the trap strapped and secured with pitch on the drain line.

THIRD QUESTION: Where should I apply silicone caulk on rubber gasket and / or compression ring? (Or don't apply caulk, which is why they call it NO-Caulk drain. )

You apply Silicon Jel under the lip of the drain before tightening the compression nut.
You will have a installation sheet with the drain. Follow the instructions. Good luck. TomUOTE=;][/QUOTE]

[schwarzy]

Thanks Sppedball for the fast response! I did not exactly explain my situation correctly after re reading the question again this morning.

I am leaving the old drain in my shower and cannot access from below easily without cutting. Right now I am doing everything from top. I have removed top compression ring and rubber gasket (while standing in shower stall) and would like to re-install with new top compression ring and rubber gasket. The old top compression ring was worn and I thought that water was escaping down this.

Could this be possible. I am just trying to figure out how to properly install

[schwarzy]

drainhowto.pdf

I was just wondering if anyone has had trouble with no-caulk drains. I called Oatey and they said that I was not to use silicone caulk on rubber caulking gasket (which is located on top of drain body). But when I pulled my old rubber caulking gasket and the plastic caulking "nut" out, there was old silicone inside the rubber gasket and all over plactic caulking nut. One plumber told me to put silicone caulk on bottom part of rubber gasket and then snug down over 2" drain pipe Then follow up with plastic caulking " drain pipe Then follow up with plastic caulking ". The other said after sliding rubber gasket over drain pipe, put a bead of silicone caulk on top, then plastic caulking ". The other said after sliding rubber gasket over drain pipe, put a bead of silicone caulk on top, then plastic caulking " (or compresssion screw) which is then tightened by metal "key" that Oatey supplies with drain. I am looking for someone who has installed a no-caulk drain and how they did it, with or without silicone caulk used on rubber gasket and plastic cauling " (or compresssion screw) which is then tightened by metal " (or compression screw).

Thanks to for any help!!