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    tom42's Avatar
    tom42 Posts: 20, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jul 4, 2010, 07:07 AM
    Briggs & Stratton motor model 402707
    I am having problems with not getting any spark to the plugs. I cleaned the Armature magneto and I think I have the right gap setting which I think should be .20 is This right? Aso should you e getting power to the magneto with just the key on or does the motor have to be running? It appears there is no powewr to the magneto.

    Just before this all happened the problem was intermintent I I changed the plugs it woul work for a while then it woul not fire once again. I am wondering if the may be some problems with the plug wires. Hardest trouble shooting I have ever done.


    Any help on trouble shooting the power problem would be appreciated.


    It appears I may not be getting power to the ignition switch however the motor will crank over with the starter.
    Thank you

    Tom42
    DG's Avatar
    DG Posts: 1,375, Reputation: 109
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    #2

    Jul 4, 2010, 11:57 AM

    .010 probley bad coil
    tom42's Avatar
    tom42 Posts: 20, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jul 4, 2010, 04:28 PM
    I was thinking along those lines. Is the coil for a small motor also the Armature Magneto? I am assume it may be since both spark plug wires come out of it. Or is it something Else that may be hidden under the Fan flywheel? I really appreciate your input.
    Not sure if this will work but I can only hope. See page 10

    Is the coil number 851 in the schematic?

    http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...402707-1212-07

    Thank you
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
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    #4

    Jul 4, 2010, 05:59 PM

    There is 333 and 319. One has the terminals (851) separate. Also note there is an ignition module (#897) in this as well.

    I don't see a code that differentiates these parts.

    I guess, I would either call Briggs or

    Check to see if your engine has the ignition module and order one or the other parts. One coil in the pic has a ring terminal. The other doesn't. Don't know what that means.
    DG's Avatar
    DG Posts: 1,375, Reputation: 109
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    #5

    Jul 5, 2010, 07:21 AM

    The coil is the one with the spark plug wires.
    Also the ground wire going to the coil should have a diode in it mif it went bad this could keep it from firing.
    It's the little black wire on the bottom of the coil.unplug it from both coils and see if you have spark,if so just replace it/
    tom42's Avatar
    tom42 Posts: 20, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Jul 6, 2010, 09:45 AM
    Will test it today. Never realized there was a Diode that could be bad of course not sure If I can find that part or it may mena repacing the whold thing. May have to replace the whole coil. But anyway thanks to all of you that gave me so many good ideas on trouble shooting this. I know your right on with your answers. As for rating you your all tops for me. I will let you know what I find out on the diode and what things I had to do to get it running again.

    Thanks aaain.

    Tom42
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
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    #7

    Jul 6, 2010, 11:11 AM

    A 1N4003 thu a 1N4006 diode should work fine. The higher breakdown voltage is preferred e.g. 1N4006. See: DigiKey Corp. | Electronic Components Distributor | United States Home Page Note the band on the device.

    It's easy to check a diode. If it's shorted, an ohmmeter will do. If it isn't then you'll need to use the diode test function of the multimeter.
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    tom42 Posts: 20, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Jul 6, 2010, 08:32 PM
    You are genus KEEP IT SIMPLE. Thank TO YOU I think I found the culprit. I was looking for the Diode next to the coil and it WAS not there. I did find a diode that was on a wire that went under the flywheel and I think that it.
    Checking it over I had no continuity and when I check for power one side is dead. On one side which is the black side I was getting 4.84 reading on the silver side was getting a 1 reading. I noticed that at one time one of the wire was exposed that goes to the diode so I think it shorted it out. Anyway I hope that's the diode. The numbers in the diode is a little different from what you gave me but I will go with the ones you gave me.
    The reading on the one I think is shot is TCI IN5L06 Does this sound right?

    I was at wits end with this one and thank to all that helped. You sure no your stuff that's all I got to say.

    The only last hope was the have you guys come over and fix it for me. Thanks again
    I will let you know the results when I replace it. It still could be the coil also but will try this first

    Tom 42
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
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    #9

    Jul 6, 2010, 09:00 PM

    Better choice. It's probably a 1N5406, See: DIODE STD REC 600V 3A DO201AD - 1N5406-E3/54

    Your readings are weird. Do you have a diode test or a resistance test? What are the units on your numbers? The diode should conduct in one direction only.
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    tom42 Posts: 20, Reputation: 1
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    #10

    Jul 7, 2010, 05:38 AM
    Comment on KISS's post
    By the way it is indead a silver band with a large black band on this Diode on my machine.
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    #11

    Jul 7, 2010, 05:53 AM
    Comment on KISS's post
    I have both.
    The diode tester is what I am getting the readings on this and is on the black side of the Diode. On the silver side I am getting the 1 reading.
    When I plug the main wire which has main power into t the plug in for the diode and pu
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
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    #12

    Jul 7, 2010, 08:48 AM

    1 & 4.84 would indicate an open. I'd expect OF and something around 0.6V.
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    tom42 Posts: 20, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    Jul 7, 2010, 10:37 AM
    Comment on KISS's post
    Like I said it could be my meter giving the weird readings. I ordered the Diode you suggested from the outfit you recommended . Here again with out you expertise with this I would still be looking for the cure.
    As soon as the diode is received I w
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
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    #14

    Jul 7, 2010, 06:44 PM

    Radio Shack has the 1N5404 3-Amp Barrel Diodes - RadioShack.com and the 1N4006. The 5406 would be more reliable in the long run.

    An index card is a good way to set the gap of the magneto. It should not touch. SOmetimes a piece of rust gets caught in the magnet and hits the pole.

    Don't use Rep to respond. Or at least pay attention to the limit.

    e.g.

    Quote Originally Posted by by reputation/comments
    tom42 : I have both. The diode tester is what i am getting the readings on this and is on the black side of the Diode. On the silver side I am getting the 1 reading. When I plug the main wire which has main power into t the plug in for the diode and pu
    Not everything is there.

    I would have placed a heat shrink tubing order from Digi-Key if I were placing an order. Soldering the diode in place will be required.
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    tom42 Posts: 20, Reputation: 1
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    #15

    Jul 7, 2010, 07:37 PM
    Comment on KISS's post

    I could not find one at or local Radio shack store they told me they could order it but what the heck so can I. Anyway I ordered two just in case one was the IN4006-T and one was the 1N5406-E3/54.
    They were so cheap so I figured get both just in
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    tom42 Posts: 20, Reputation: 1
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    #16

    Jul 7, 2010, 07:51 PM
    Comment on KISS's post
    For some reason my last part of message got cut off. Is the second Diode with the two letters at the end work to work or should I reorder?

    It looks like it is 600V 3A DO201AD

    Have the shrink tube one step ahead on this one.

    The parts should be he
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    tom42 Posts: 20, Reputation: 1
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    #17

    Jul 8, 2010, 04:46 AM
    Comment on KISS's post
    Here in 3 to 4 days. Time will tell. Pretty sure your on the right track with this one.
    On the magneto side do I set the gap on the magnetic side or on the non magnetic side of the flywheel? Or does it make a difference.

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