[jkorver]

Can someone take a look at this drawing I made?
I am concerned about the distance from the wet vent from the vanity that vents the toilet. I wander if it is too far away.
I am NOT a plumber. This is my first time doing this.


Hopefully this is the attachment now.

[speedball1]

Do you know what plumbing code you fall under? You could save some venting if wet vents are allowed in your area. Back to you, Tom

[jkorver]

Hi Tom!
Thanks so much for your help. I very much appreciate it.
I am in Lincoln, Nebraska. Yes, as I understand, wet vents are allowed. I had a licensed plumber over (for about 5 minutes) and he was going to use the wet vent like I have it in the diagram. However, I am concerned about the distance from the toilet to the vent.

A couple pictures are attached.
-The toilet goes right above the ladder.
-The plywood face is the front of my soffit and the 3" line runs in the soffit.
-The end opposite the ladder is the 4" main stack.

[Milo Dolezal]

Where are you located ? What Code does your project falls under ? Back to you...

[jkorver]

Located in Lincoln, NE. Not sure of the exact codes. Sorry, first timer with drains.


I do know that wet venting IS allowed.

[speedball1]

I was going to eliminate the tub vent and wet vent it until I noticed the double vanity. Looks OK to me! You should be just fine with the toilet position at 8' from the vent. Good luck, Tom

[jkorver]

Thanks Tom.
The main reason I asked is because in a previous thread, I thought you had said the max distance to the vent on a 3" toilet was 6 ft. (or 10 ft. for a 4" line). Is that not the case?
I probably misread it or something.

[massplumber2008]

Hi Guys...

Jkover, I'm afraid I see an issue or two. The major issue will be with the toilet and the wet vent... the vent needs to roll above the center line of the toilet drain AFTER the pipe comes up into the joist bay... that make sense? This means you will need to drill the joists as you run a 2" pipe over to the double vanity. The 3 elbows at the toilet are also an issue... can replace (1) 90 with a 45... right. I see other small issues as well... will post about these later tonight when I get back in from my Kids' baseball game! Let me know your thoughts so far!

What height are your joists... let me know.

Mark

[jkorver]

the vent needs to roll above the center line of the toilet drain AFTER the pipe comes up into the joist bay...that make sense?

Mark, Thanks.
- The joists are 9 inches tall (not sure why not 9-1/4") - old lumber?
- Good point with the 3-90deg elbows. I will try to reduce as you described.

I've attached another diagram to make sure we are on the same page.
- The wet vent runs parallel with the floor joists
- The 3" line is in the soffit (below the bottom of floor joists).

[massplumber2008]

Yup! We're on the same page... just need to change a few things.

First, you can drill the joists to maximum of a 3" hole...preferably centered or as close to center of the joist as possible. Start your wet vent slightly below center of the joist and finish just above center of the joist and you will maintain a well pitched pipe over the distance needed and still stay within the limits of joist drilling rules.

Now, the wet vent for the toilet must connect above the centerline for the drain line....see images. If you move the toilet drain up and into the joist bay then the wet vent must also move up into that joist bay, roll above the centerline of the drain and then pick up the double vanity...you will need to drill 2 9/16" holes to accommodate the 2" pipe for this wet vent to get to the joist bay for the double vanity drain/vent (drill holes as above).

This means that you will want to keep the toilet drain line as close to the bottom of the joist as possible. This way you can have a little room to roll a wye or a sanitary tee fitting just above the centerline of the pipe and install the pipe with the right pitch of 1/4" per foot of pipe and still use a long sweep 90 as you turn vertical to pick up the double vanity. You also want to use a long sweep 90 (or (2) 45s) as you change from horizontal to horizontal. After that you'll install a 2"x1.5" double SANITARY TEE fitting above the floor to pick up the two sinks. Finish by running the 2" vent and connecting to the other double sink vent as you drew it up.

The only way to avoid drilling the joists would be to see if that soffit can be widened and then maybe you can pipe the toilet up without having to roll up and into the joist bay. If so, you could install this as you first drew it all up (minus that extra 90) especially since code requires a vent to be within 6-8 feet of a toilet when using a 3" drain line as you are (depends on your code).

Finally, rolling a vent fitting above the center line does not always mean that you need to roll completely over the top of the pipe as you have drawn... if needed you can roll the fitting so it actually just above the centerline of the pipe say at a 45 degree angle instead of 90 degrees off the top... especially in remodeling.

Otherwise, that's how you do this!

That's enough for now... ;) A few more points later. Let me know that all this makes sense.. OK?

Mark

[jkorver]

Mark - Awesome drawings, that helped a ton. I THINK I understand.
Can I use an offset closet flange or is that considered the "beginning" of the centerline of the drain?

How far down from the closet flange is considered the "start" of the centerline? Or is it whenever it turns horizontal?

I really don't want to drill the joists (old home and I am adding quite a bit of weight with this new master bath.
Also, the soffit is placed perfectly for my authentic tin ceiling for the original house feel.

But I think an offset flange would fit (barely) IF you say this would work.

[massplumber2008]

If an offset flange will work so you don't have to drill the joists then you will be just fine. The distance regarding venting is going to be measured as the "developed length" of the pipe to the vent fitting, i.e., the length of the pipe from the toilet flange to the vent fitting. 8 feet is code in my area...probably good in your area as well, but you'll need to check to be sure! If the code requirement is 6 feet then you'll need to move the wye fitting closer and you'll simply need to drill one or two joists...UGH!

If you do need to drill a hole or two and you are really concerned (although you really don't need to be with 2"x10" in place) then you could double up the joist and span a joist bay with wood and joist hangers for added strength... ;)

Otherwise, you should be all set now!

:)

Mark

[jkorver]

Mark,
This is excellent advice. I am going to put this together soon. I'll let you know how it works out.
However, I have no idea how to "rate answers" or "spread reputation" (whatever that is)
I would have course if I could. I read several threads on the topic but people rambled about other things rather than answering the question about rating answers
Ironic maybe?? :o