[dishu]

Whenever I do the cutting for salwar kameez, the bust area and the neck is always loose, unable to adjust armhole and chest for proper fitting, help.

[dishu]

Whenever I do the cutting for salwar kameez, the bust area and the neck is always loose, unable to adjust armhole and chest for proper fitting, help.

[dontknownuthin]

This is a fairly simple garment but the most difficult measurements to fit properly are the ones you are struggling with - the armholes, bust and neckline. I am guessing you are buying too large a pattern - perhaps you are like many people, a little larger in the waist or hips, so you buy a pattern to accommodate those larger measurements. I used to also buy a pattern to accommodate my largest measurement but I've had so many experiences like yours, I now buy patterns to accommodate the most difficult measurement to change on the pattern! It's easy to make a waist or hips larger on nearly anything, or to make something longer, but it's really hard for me to adjust these tricky necklines and armholes. So buy a smaller pattern.

Compare all of your body measurements to all of the pattern measurements and make a list of where your body it different than the pattern. Then you need to carefully adjust the pattern before you cut out your pattern. Cut with generous seam allowances and don't trim the excess until the garment is perfectly fit to you so you can take it in and out as needed. If you are making this of some lovely silk or other precious fabric, make the garment out of cheap cotton or muslin first. Only cut into your nice fabric after you've got that muslin fitting you perfectly. You can then take the muslin apart and use that as the pattern on your good fabric.

Also, be aware that most people find that one pattern company will fit their body type better than another pattern company. Try another brand of pattern. If you have female relatives who sew, if they have a similar body type to yours, find out what pattern brand they use - it will probably be the best for you, too. And ask questions when you purchase your pattern as people in the stores know a lot from serving so many people. Ask them about which patterns would be best for your proportions.

Another thing I have done is that I took apart an old garment that fit me well but was too worn and stained to use any longer, and I used it as my pattern. I laid it out on brown butcher paper and drew around each piece, adding 1/4" all around for seam allowance. Then I had the perfect pattern for my body.

A final suggestion would be that you take your project with you to a sewing store. I don't know what country you are in, but in the US I have found that the stores that specialize in just sewing (not huge craft stores) tend to have wonderful seamstresses for sales staff, and they have shown me many good tips over the years. Or ask a friend or neighbor who's sewing you admire - most are happy to share their skills.

Good luck with your project and be patient...there's a saying carpenters use that applies to seamstresses, too - "measure twice, cut once". When we get impatient, we mess up the project so if you get frustrated, take a break, have some tea and try again later.