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    GMoneyJR's Avatar
    GMoneyJR Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jun 8, 2010, 07:18 AM
    Crank, no spark or fuel civic
    95 civic will crank but won't start. Fuel pump won't cycle, no spark and CEL stays on. I have put a new Relay and have new distributor. I have checked all power supplys at the relay plug and ECU and Grounds also. Checked to see if I have power to distributor and Injectors and I do. When I ground the fuel pump relay at the ECU plug the fuel pump comes on. I just don't know what else to try. Harnesses look great.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Jun 8, 2010, 07:21 AM

    Jr. perform the K-Test on your ECM--it may have failed.
    GMoneyJR's Avatar
    GMoneyJR Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jun 8, 2010, 07:28 AM

    What is the Ktest to be exact. Is it checkn MAP sensor for voltage @ the MAP or At the ECU
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    Jun 8, 2010, 07:30 AM

    It checks for 5 reference volts at the MAP Sensor.
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    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #5

    Jun 8, 2010, 07:33 AM

    The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.
    GMoneyJR's Avatar
    GMoneyJR Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Jun 8, 2010, 07:40 AM

    Center pin has 4.5 volts and right pin has 7.8 volts w/key on position (II) Battery has 11 volts
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #7

    Jun 8, 2010, 07:48 AM

    It appears that something is definitely wrong with your ECM. I've never seen this before, but the 7.8 reference volts is way too high. Try replacing the ECM. ECMs on these older Hondas are really starting to fail.
    GMoneyJR's Avatar
    GMoneyJR Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Jun 8, 2010, 07:48 AM

    Now what.
    GMoneyJR's Avatar
    GMoneyJR Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Jun 8, 2010, 07:51 AM

    Thanks bro that's what I have been thinkn and it was my last resort.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #10

    Jun 8, 2010, 07:53 AM

    Here's how to easily replace your ECM:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235038

    Remanufactured ECMs go for around $250. If you decide to shop on eBay, you may find one for around $125. Be sure to get an exact Honda Part No. match.
    GMoneyJR's Avatar
    GMoneyJR Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    Jun 8, 2010, 10:27 AM
    Changed ECU and still have the same reference volts 7.8. There has to be something else. When I probe the center the relay start to click continueously.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #12

    Jun 8, 2010, 10:46 AM

    Is that a new, known good ECM? Something is really strange, here.
    GMoneyJR's Avatar
    GMoneyJR Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    Jun 8, 2010, 11:18 AM

    K-test between D19 D21 and there is no voltage at all
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #14

    Jun 8, 2010, 11:22 AM

    Again, I think your ECM is toast, especially since it failed the confirming test. Get a new ECM and your car will fire right up.
    GMoneyJR's Avatar
    GMoneyJR Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #15

    Jun 8, 2010, 11:23 AM

    Also no voltage to ACG fuse
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #16

    Jun 8, 2010, 11:29 AM

    I was going to ask you if you checked that. That may be the source of your problem. I figured you had, for sure, tested all under dash and under hood fuses with your multimeter.

    Remove, clean, and test the fuse.
    GMoneyJR's Avatar
    GMoneyJR Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #17

    Jun 8, 2010, 11:31 AM

    I did earlier and it had voltage. What could it be. An open.
    GMoneyJR's Avatar
    GMoneyJR Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #18

    Jun 8, 2010, 11:36 AM

    It has voltage just had a bad grd.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #19

    Jun 8, 2010, 11:37 AM

    Bad ignition switch, which needs to be checked for wear, pitting, or melting.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #20

    Jun 8, 2010, 11:39 AM
    If you have voltage, now, perform the K-Test again. The car may even start.
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