[DavidDuBois]

To follow up on the previous question regarding a similar problem. I also have a shower stall "leaker". What I've found in my situation is this: My enclosure sits over my garage. There is a whole cut through the sub floor (particle board) to access the drain. It appears that whoever installed this drain, cross threaded the large nut, then glued it? Thereby making it impossible to achieve a correct seal. They also installed the gasket incorrectly and yes, I can see it's all bunched up and dried out (14 year old house). It doesn't appear to have the "slipwasher" either. There is also a gap between the base of the enclosure and the sub floor. I'm going to try and shim it to avoid any further flexing. The plumbers putty that was used to seal the flange is gone and yes it leaks. I purchased a new drain assembly. My problem is how do I remove the old since the nut is glued? All I can thing of is to snap off / break the flange in order to drop the whole assembly out from below? I'm also considering using a dremel tool w/cutting wheel to cut through wall of the down tube to remove the flange that way? I want to do "the fix" the right way. Thanks for you advice in advance!

[speedball1]

All I can thing of is to snap off / break the flange in order to drop the whole assembly out from below? I'm also considering using a dremel tool w/cutting wheel to cut through wall of the down tube to remove the flange that way?

By flange I assume you mean the drain, (see image). I wouldn't just "bust " it out but I would cut the old drain out and install a new one. Let us know if you need assistance on this. Good luck. Tom

[DavidDuBois]

Yes - by "flange" I am referring to the drain assembly itself. It looks like it would be a pain to try and break, the pvc material is kind of thick. I don't want to crack / damage the shower enclosure either. Cutting seems to be the best option. Is there another way to proceed with the removal of the old drain, other than the dremel tool idea? I tried breaking the nut glue seal by hitting on the nut itself but, the whole assembly just keeps spinning. That didn't work. Thanks!

[speedball1]

If you have the room you can make a cut just above the nut with a Saws-All. That gets the drain lip. Cut the rest off the raiser low enough to put a coupling on the trap raiser so it can be brought up enough to glue on a new drain. Good luck, Tom

[DavidDuBois]

Tom, Thank you for your advice! I understand that I need to cut above the nut. Can't get to it from underneath though. The hole is barely big enough to fit the new assembly nut back into place. It looks like they cut the hole in the sub floor after installing the shower itself, using the drain hole as a guide. I'm going to use a dremel cut off wheel and remove the lip from above, no other choice. Once that's off, I should be able to drop the remainder out from below. Then, I'll drop the new assembly in from above, silicone the underside of the lip, and install the rest from below. I'm glad I found this site! I'm sure it will come in handy for something else down the road. What's better than free advice form an expert?

[DavidDuBois]

Just following up on the completion of my repair. The removal of the flange using the dremel cut off wheel went as expected (pretty easy). Much easier than attempting to cut through the wall of the assembly above the nut. The remainder of the drain body and the "glued on nut, then dropped down and out. Some clean up of the shower enclosure hole then, new silicone under the lip of the new assembly to ensure a complete seal. I set the new gasket, slip washer and tightened the nut. Inserted the two inch drain pipe that goes into the p-trap. Works great without any leaks. Thank you again for your help and encouragement!

[speedball1]

What's better than free advice form an expert?

It's even better, Dave, when all that free advice works. Thanks for the update. Tom