[TxGreaseMonkey]

There shouldn't be threads on the igniter--just two holes. This allows the igniter to fasten securely to the heat sink. If the igniter's holes were threaded, it would not work. This is an important point and lesson for you. The holes in the original igniter were not threaded, either. You don't want the piece you are mounting to have threads--it won't tighten as much otherwise. This is a basic mechanical engineering principle.

[d16soda]

That's what I thought, but this heatsink stays connected to the frame of the distributor, where the igniter will detach. It holds it in place, as in pegs in a hold, but it doesn't fasten down to the igniter. This is correct?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Isn't the new igniter identical to the old one? The #2 Phillips cap head machine screws should not pull through the holes in the igniter.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

It should look like this:

AutoZone.com | | Control Module - Ignition | CONTROL MODULE

[d16soda]

Problem solved I'm retarded lol. So now, the 4 prongs coming off the ICM where the wires attach, will that one on the side have a wire connected to it?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Only 15 min. left on your lab class final--then, all tools will be taken away.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I believe the one on the right side goes to the BLU wire (tachometer).

After the igniter and heat sink are installed in the distributor:

YEL/GRN wire goes to the male terminal on the left.

BLK/YEL wire goes to the center male terminal.

WHT/BLU wire from the coil goes to the male terminal on the right.

[d16soda]

A failure of epic proportion. I broke off a screw that holds the wire connector down on the coil. I have no clue what to do. Its inside the hole, broken. :( :( :(

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Did you tighten it too much?

[d16soda]

Ya, but it didn't even go down far enough to hit the metal contact. And the screw is the same one that came out of it.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

You may need to buy a new coil and screw.

First, try removing the coil from the distributor, by removing the two mounting screws. Then, take a small jeweler's screwdriver and see if you can ease the sheared-off screw out, as you apply pressure. If you do it right, you should be able to get it out.

[d16soda]

It broke the head off the screw. Ahjsuerhjaskrg I can't explain my frustration. I have no money for a coil :(

[TxGreaseMonkey]

See if my approach works or take a strong needle or awl and see if you can work it out--you should be able to. This is a time for you to be creative. Once it starts to come, you should be able to get out.

[d16soda]

Well its too soft, I cut a notch with my dremel pretty deep, got a flathead in there and it just bent the screw and my notch had disappeared as if it were made of clay.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Ask you friend, who has the Dremel Tool, to cut a very small channel across the sheared-off screw. Use a small screwdriver to then back it out.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

See if a salvage yard will sell you a coil for a couple of bucks--just ensure it's the right one.

[d16soda]

Yeah I'm going to check salvage yards. I have it on VERY snug with a little lock-tie thing. Its sitting fine, but only temporary.

[d16soda]

Now, where would the tach wire be to plug into the ICM. I seem to have lost it

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Other than that, is everything else reinstalled in the distributor and ready to go?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

The tach wire should be inside the distributor. It may have fallen beneath the igniter/heat sink.

Take your old coil to a mechanically inclined friend and ask him for help.