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    frogfan72's Avatar
    frogfan72 Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 12, 2010, 04:07 PM
    Need help with standpipe behind washer where it meets foundation - disassembling
    Normally, I don't have any problems taking plumbing apart. But, I'm drawing a blank with this one. The pipe is not tight coming out of the base, but I can't seem to figure out how to take apart. I have attached a photo of what I'm working with. It's leaking at the base during the rinse cycle currently and I need a more water-tight answer.

    http://www.affinitymm.com/photos/photo.jpg

    Any suggestions? Thanks!
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
    Plumbing Expert
    		  
    #2

    Jan 12, 2010, 04:54 PM

    frogfan72,

    Is it leaking at the threaded portion, or below the threaded portion.
    frogfan72's Avatar
    frogfan72 Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jan 12, 2010, 04:56 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by mygirlsdad77 View Post
    frogfan72,

    Is it leaking at the threaded portion, or below the threaded portion.
    Just below. Just can't get it apart.
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #4

    Jan 12, 2010, 05:35 PM

    Looks to me like you have a lead and okum joint going into the hub at the floor.. If it loose, you may be able to just work that sucker out with brute force(back and forth on the standpipe, also using a pipe wrech on the pipe to try an spin it a little to help with the force. Or you can drill the lead out with a the right sized drill bit then pull it should come out real easy. Once you have the piece out, you will need to look for the correct sized ferco donut(rubber bushing) to adapt new pvc to the existing cast iron hub.


    One other thought. You may be able to just recaulk the existing lead joint. Just need a couple caulking tools and a hammer. One of the other pros here may be able to give you a diagram for recaulking the joint(this is not the same as silicone caulk,) Good luck and let us know what you think. Lee.


    I have posted a pic of the ferco donut in case it comes to that.
    Attached Images
     
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #5

    Jan 12, 2010, 05:54 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by ;
    One other thought. You may be able to just recaulk the existing lead joint.
    If it's leaking around the lead joint, STOP!! and don't attempt to unscrew the stand pipe. This is a 10 minute repair at best. What you have is a lead and oakum joint. It's not the lead that holds the water in. It's jist there to pack the oakum down. You need to recaulk the joint and pack the oakum back down after the lead ring loosened up. You Perform caulking operations using an inside caulking iron first and then an outside caulking iron,(see images)( Rent a pair or inside and outside irons) Drive the lead down upon the oakum and into contact with the spigot surface on one edge and against the inner surface of the hub on the other. Strike the caulking iron gently but firmly with a hammer. Caulking the lead too tightly can crack the pipe. A cracked pipe or fitting must be replaced. D out side caulking irons, (see image) and caulk the lead joint.
    Good luck, Tom,
    Attached Images
      
    frogfan72's Avatar
    frogfan72 Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Jan 12, 2010, 06:04 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by mygirlsdad77 View Post
    looks to me like you have a lead and okum joint going into the hub at the floor.. If it loose, you may be able to just work that sucker out with brute force(back and forth on the standpipe, also using a pipe wrech on the pipe to try an spin it a little to help with the force. Or you can drill the lead out with a the right sized drill bit then pull it should come out real easy. once you have the piece out, you will need to look for the correct sized ferco donut(rubber bushing) to adapt new pvc to the existing cast iron hub.


    One other thought. You may be able to just recaulk the existing lead joint. Just need a couple caulking tools and a hammer. One of the other pros here may be able to give you a diagram for recaulking the joint(this is not the same as silicone caulk,) Good luck and let us know what you think. Lee.


    i have posted a pic of the ferco donut incase it comes to that.
    Too late on the re-caulking method. I had already been working that thing to begin with. I just need re-assurance if/when it came out, I could fix it.

    Anyone know the generic name for the fernco donut - so I could find it at Lowe's? That plus a PVC pipe and I'm good to go.

    Thank you all for your help!
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #7

    Jan 12, 2010, 06:12 PM

    Doesn't really matter how much you worked it if its still inplace, toms advice will still work. However, if you already have it out, I think your going to have to go the route of the rubber bushing. Not sure on the other names of bushing, but I know there are a few different names out there. I suggest trying a plumbing company to get the correct part. Or, ask for a plumbing pro at Lowe's and see if they can help you out.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
    		  
    #8

    Jan 12, 2010, 06:17 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by ;
    Anyone know the generic name for the fernco donut - so I could find it at Lowe's? That plus a PVC pipe and I'm good to go.
    Simply ask for a 2" cast iron hub doughnut or a Multi-Tite Gasket. Bevel the end of the PVC standpipe to remove any rough edges and use plenty of grease. Good luck, Tom
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