[Tumbz]

Hi!

Im having a problem and I hope you guys could help.

My 2001 Manual Civic all of a sudden had this problem.

My Clutch Stick suddenly won't engage in the gear and it feels like there's PRESSURE inside that is preventing me from putting it in gear!

First gear works OK and engages, but when I shift to 2nd, 3rd, or 4th gear, it feels like there's PRESSURE inside and I would have to shift like 2 times to get it into gear... Or else it'll slip out of gear...

What is going on? It happened all of a sudden...

I looked under the hood and the brake fluid is still on max and is clear...

THANKS for any suggestions

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Check the clutch master cylinder reservoir, not the brake master cylinder reservoir. It should be filled to the MAX Line with brake fluid. It should not be overfilled, which is one of the main reasons hydraulic clutches fail.

The description sounds like the clutch slave cylinder, located on the front of the engine, may be failing. This is making it nearly impossible for the clutch to disengage from the flywheel. Another, less likely, possibility is that the synchros are worn. Here's how to replace the clutch slave cylinder, if that sounds like the problem to you:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post232189

After you solve this problem, replace the manual transmission fluid with Amsoil Synthetic Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid (5W-30)--you'll be glad you did. This is what I used in my Civic's transmission. Change every 30,000 miles, while the transmission is hot.

Here's an important part of changing the clutch slave unit:

Brake/Clutch fluid--Valvoline SynPower or ATE TYP 200 Brake Fluid. Change every 2 years. This is particularly important to do on anti-lock brake systems, in order to prevent corrosion from developing. Corrosion can tear the seals apart inside brake/clutch systems and result in "eye popping" repair bills. I use the fool-proof Brake Bleeder Economy One-Man, Cal-Van Tools, No. 247, brake bleeder for both applications. It cost $2.99 and has a one-way check valve. Here's a similar, and more widely available, product from Harbor Freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=98864

Changing the brake fluid every 2 years is the key to trouble-free brakes and clutches.

[Tumbz]

Is the clutch slave cylinder easy to change? I am a total newbie.

I see the master Brake cylinder. I also see the master Clutch cylinder which is right next to the master brake. The smaller one.

But where is the Clutch Slave Cylinder?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

It's between the radiator and the engine, slightly on the passenger's side of the car. Look for the metal hydraulic tubing and the bleed screw. The bleed screw should have a protective neoprene cap on it.

It's not a difficult job at all; however, it's important that you use the high temperature polyurea grease and bleed the system of ALL air. If the system is not bled properly, the clutch pedal will keep going to the floor and you won't be able to shift.

[Tumbz]

Hey TxGreaseMonkey. Here's a thought.

I took your suggestions and I been trying to figure this all out.

I live in New York and it recently got very cold. This is exactly when my clutch started feeling like there's pressure inside when I shift to 2nd+ 3rd + 4th gears.

Could it be that the moisture inside my clutch system FROZE thus making the clutch hard to get into gear??

So if that's the case, then my clutch slave cylinder is OK and all I would need to do is BLEED my clutch to get all the air + moisture out? Also change the manual transmission fluid?

What do you think? SHould I bleed before I buy a new clutch slave cylinder?

[Tumbz]

I been reading on how to bleed the clutch system, and I kind of got the idea, but what do you mean about the HIGH TEMP POLYUREA GREASE?

What is that for?

I understand that the I would need 1 person inside car pressing the clutch, while I un tighten the clutch slave cylinder and let it bleed. I will do this like 10 times...

[TxGreaseMonkey]

High Temperature Polyurea Grease is a specialized type of grease. Obviously, it's high temperature but it also resists catching fire. It's used to lubricate the ball and socket.

Your theory of moisture freezing is possible but I've never heard of it happening. Glycol ether brake fluid is very efficient, however, at dispersing moisture throughout the system, so water won't form and freeze.

You don't have much to lose by trying to bleed the system first. Besides, you'll get some experience doing it.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

You need to assess the situation and decide if the problem is with the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, or air in the system. I would remove the rubber boot from the slave cylinder, have a friend depress the clutch, and observe whether the slave cylinder is working properly. It needs to be able to move the clutch arm enough to disengage the clutch.

If you decide to replace the slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder, don't attempt the project without having an 11 mm flare nut wrench. Otherwise, you can easily distort the nut from sealing. Replacing the slave cylinder is very straight-forward. The trick is purging all air from the system, so the clutch pedal doesn't go to the floor.

[Tumbz]

Thanks TxGreaseMonkey! I will do that first... If that works, then I will flush the clutch system via the slave cylinder...

Then I will do a manual transmission change.. The amsoil you recommended is hard to find in NYC! HAHAHHA... I will order it online or something.

I read its very good stuff though so I will use it.

THANKS FOR the ADVISE! You're a pro!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Yes, I buy the Amsoil product online. It's the best out there. You will love the 5W-30 weight for living in New York--it will shift much better.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Suck out the old brake fluid from the clutch master cylinder reservoir with a standard battery squeeze bulb, after removing the white float. Don't take it down too far, to prevent air from getting into the system. Then, refill with a quality brake fluid, such as Valvoline, and replace the cap. Attach a one-man brake bleeder to the slave cylinder bleeder screw, crack the bleeder screw loose, and have a friend pump the clutch by hand two times. Refill the clutch master cylinder reservoir, replace the cap, and repeat the process until all of the old fluid is purged.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Any new thoughts on your situation?

[Tumbz]

Ok TxGreaseMonkey.
Please read my update and let me know if its OK.

I BLED the Clutch Slave Cylinder. I know to use a tube and bottle filled with brake fluid to make sure no air gets in but, the tube wouldn't stay on the NIPPLE so I just did it without the tube.

After BLEEDING the clutch slave cylinder, my clutch pedal feels MUCH SMOOTHER, BUT it seems like I have to let go of the clutch at a HIGHER level for the car to move.

Is that OK to you? I tested the car and everything seems OK.

As far as my original problem with the PRESSURE in the gearbox, I am still waiting for my 2 QT bottles of AMSOIL MTF to arrive. I think changing the MTF will fix the pressure in the gearbox... I hope so..

What do you think so far? =)

[Tumbz]

I did exactly what you mentioned above... I sucked out the fluid from the MASTER Clutch Cylinder + Brake Reservoir... Then I replaced it with new Valvoline Syn Brake Fluid Dot 3 for ABS systems.

I had my girlfriend sit in the car to press the clutch while I bled the clutch slave cylinder like 15 times! When all the fluid was clear again, I tightened it and closed the MASTER clutch cylinder cap and the clutch pedal popped up!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Sounds like you are saying the clutch engagement point has changed. The clutch pedal disengagement height should be 83mm (3.27 in.) minimum to the floor.

The clutch should be self-adjusting to compensate for wear.

When you drive the car, how does it shift and what is your overall gut feeling?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Did you make sure not to overfill the reservoir?

If you did anything wrong, the pedal would go to the floor and you would have to pull it back up with your hand. Therefore, it sounds like you did a good job.

[Tumbz]

Sounds like you are saying the clutch engagement point has changed. The clutch pedal disengagement height should be 83mm (3.27 in.) minimum to the floor.

The clutch should be self-adjusting to compensate for wear.

When you drive the car, how does it shift and what is your overall gut feeling?

Exactly what I'm saying...

If its self adjusting, then I guess its OK.

My overall gut feeling is that I think the clutch does NOT have a lot more wear. It probably needs a new pad soon! But I knew that before I bled it.

I have 102,000 miles and I have never changed the clutch.

How long does a clutch usually last for? I drive my car normally...

Overall, the pedal was never a problem. It was my gearbox. I just did the bleeding as an extra touch because I never bled my clutch.

After bleeding all the nasty fluid out, the pedal feels much smoother when it goes down and up

[Tumbz]

Thanks Tx!

I made sure not to overfill the reservoir.

=)

I will update as soon as I receive my AMSOIL MTF and change it. It already shipped from AMSOIL so I should be getting it in like 2 days.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Clutch life is really a function of how and where one drives. I've seen Civics go over 225,000 miles on the original clutch. Many need replacing 125,000 to 175,000 miles. Accord clutches tend to not last as long, since people drive them harder.

Yes, changing the fluid will be the moment of truth. Make sure to drain the transaxle into a shallow pan, allow the contents to settle, and examine the pan for abnormal signs of wear. The trick to refilling the transmission is to use a long-neck automatic transmission funnel. Then, you can stand up and easily add your 1.9 qts. Of Amsoil 5W-30 MTF. This is much easier than using a pump.

While you're servicing your clutch, here's a nice touch for your clutch pedal:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1833643

[Tumbz]

Thanks Tx!