[rmac18]

The water is heated slightly but not nearly to the normal temperature. You can tell the difference between the hot and cold water but just barely. I haven't ever touched this but is there normal maintenance on it or any troubleshooting that can be done? I see in the manual where you can adjust the temperature but I know that neither panel has been removed so I'm curious if it can change on it's own. I also see something in the manual's troubleshooting guide about a High Temperature Limit Switch possibly being activated. Any ideas on how to check or reset this? Thanks

[massplumber2008]

Hi Rmac:

First thing to check will be to see if the electrical breaker (or fuse) to the water heater has tripped. Check for this at the electrical panel... hopefully the water heater is clearly marked (usually a 30 amp double breaker or 2-30 amp fuses). If the breaker or the fuse is tripped or blown then you will need to reset the breaker or replace the fuse.

If no issue with the power then you will find a junction box at the very top of the water heater an access panel at the top front of the heater and an access panel at the bottom front of the heater. Open the top front access panel and remove the access panel and then the plastic shield and the loose insulation under it. Once all that is removed you should see a thermostat with a red reset button (see image... reset button is circled in red). Push this reset button (the high temp. limit you mentioned) in and see if it CLICKS. If it does, it will have restored power to the unit and you should, at a minimum, get a tank of hot water... ;) After that, if the unit doesn't trip again you will be all set. If the unit trips again you will want to plan on replacing both the upper and the lower thermostats (about $15.00 each at home depot). The wiring diagram is below on the left side of the image (see DOUBLE ELEMENT DIAGRAM).

If the thermostat doesn't click when you push it in then you will need to get an electrical tester that can test for continuity and we can go through the next steps in diagnosing the issues here. The most likely culprit if none of the above will be that an ELEMENT has gone bad and will need to be replaced, but I don't think that is your issue for now... OK?

Let us know what you determine...

MARK

[rmac18]

Thanks Mark,

It's not a breaker. Unfortunately none of the breakers are labeled but I carefully checked all of them and it is not that. When I remove the two screws to the top front access panel I see styrofoam insulation. I remove that and then there is a plastic cover with two holes cut in it. One has a red button and the lower has a white button. I've tried pushing the red button but it doesn't seem to want to click. Is this the correct red button or do I need to remove the plastic shield and look further in. Also, do I need to cut power to this? I don't know for sure which breaker it is but I could cut all of them if necessary. I do have a Volt Ohm meter for further testing. Thanks again,

Rob

[rmac18]

On further inspection I'm sure this is the proper red button. I push it but it doesn't seem to click. I see on top of the unit is a power cable that goes straight up into the ceiling. It looks like it could easily be bumped and the water heater is right next to the washing machine. All things being equal I'd rather run the cord up the wall and have it be out of the way though I don't think there is enough slack in the line to do it without running a new line all the way from the breaker box. Is this common?

I just have a standard multimeter that I got at Radio Shack and use on low voltage electronics projects. Is this suitable? I think it probably is but thought I'd ask just to be safe.

[massplumber2008]

Hi Rmac...

A standard multimeter should work. It does test for continuity... right?

To start, I would shut the power off to the heater even if you have to shut the power off to the house. Then you want to test for power at the junction box on top of the heater. Remove the junction box cover plate and then uncap the wires in the box making sure to keep them well separated. Turn the power supply back on and test for power as follows:

Touch each set of wires using one electrical probe on on the wires and the other electrical tester probe on the ground screw at the heater... you should get a reading of 110-120V. Test both sets of wires like this. Both should give 110-120 V for a combined 220-240V (see image).

If you have power at both sets of wires (220-240 V) then you will need to disconnect the power supply back at the electrical panel again.

After power off is confirmed (use tester to confirm) you want to disconnect the wires from the elements and then test across the element screws for continuity. If continuity present then the element is fine. If DISCONTIUOUS (0 ohms) then the element will need to be replaced. Test both top and bottom element the same way (disconnect wires from the element).

Let us know if you need help replacing the element.

Finally, if you feel this is beyond your ability please call in a qualified plumber or electrician to do this.. O.K?

Let me know if you have questions...

MARK

[rmac18]

Thanks Mark,

I followed your steps and found a short where the power comes into the top of the water heater. I reconnected it and it kicked on immediately. I have a feeling I need to figure out how to reroute this cables so it isn't so exposed but that's a project for after Christmas.

Thanks again,

Rob

[massplumber2008]

Glad we could help Rob... ;)

Thank you for updating me~

Happy holidays! MARK