[angel2diefor]

Why won't my 99 ford taurus start? I have replaced the starter, replaced the ignition coil and tested the ignition sensor. The sar would not start. I tested for spark by putting a screw driver into the # 1 slot on the coil and first attempt no spark, second attempt. I got spark and the car started. Drove the car around parked it and the car won't turn over again, not even with a screw driver.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. Check all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

. Check for codes. Even if the CEL is not on, there may be intermittent codes that will send you in the right direction.

. Check for fuel. Do you hear the fuel pump run, when the ignition switch is turned to ON? If not, check the 15A fuel pump fuse in the under hood fuse box. Remove fuse and clean contacts, if power does not pass. If the fuel pump still doesn't run, focus on the Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM), located next to the battery.

. Check for spark again. It doesn't sound like you tested for spark properly. You may have over-stressed the coil, by removing the spark plug wire at the coil. Instead, remove the wire at the plug, attach a properly gapped plug, ground the plug, and have someone else crank the starter while you observe the spark. Consider replacing the coil. Did you apply dielectric grease to all connections? Are all connections seated properly? If the engine still doesn't start, check/replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor.

[angel2diefor]

Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM), located next to the battery. How do I pay attention to this? What am I looking for? How do I test? I'm lost helppppp.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

The CCRM is serviced only as an assembly. After checking all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter, and resetting the inertia switch in the trunk, consider replacing the CCRM. The CCRM is a reliable, and expensive, unit; therefore, proceed slowly.

[angel2diefor]

The CCRM is serviced only as an assembly. After checking all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter, and resetting the inertia switch in the trunk, consider replacing the CCRM. The CCRM is a reliable, and expensive, unit; therefore, proceed slowly.

Thank you Tx. Thank you for your help. I went through all the relays and fuse and they all semed OK. Tried to start the car in the morning and it wouldn't start. Tried again in the afternoon in the rain and it turned over. Ran it for 10 minutes and turned it of. Started it again twice and it turned fine drove it around and got it all nice and hot. Turned the car off and wouldn't start. Let it sit for ten minutes it chugged chugged and died. Let it sit for 20 minutes and then it started fine. I have searched for a cold start valve for my car but can't find one for it or on it (unless I'm missing it). Any ideal what would cause this? Could this be the ignition switch malfunctoning?

[KISS]

Terms:
Car starts - means engine runs
Turn over - you turn key and starter turns

It gets a little confusing reading the post above.

Not turning over in a general sense would be ignition switch, neutral/park start switches, brake switch in some cars, remote start systems, car alarms.

Not sure if the RFID key systems lock out the starter.

If the problem is thermal and or intermittant, could be ignition module, crankshaft position sensor, fuel pump relay as first order guesses.