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speedball1 · Sep 5, 2009, 10:50 AM

Are you looking at the UPC or the IPC codes and measures.

cyberheater · Sep 5, 2009, 11:00 AM

No - our state references their own info.

Back. Sorry. I think I need to try to write this out clearly for myself as well as for you.

I could make the vent a little closer from the laundry/floor drain area. I haven't glued that yet . "yay". Since I have to go 6" above my flood rim at the laundry tub/stand in pipe before going any horiz. and before i hit the window above I will have to put my first trap --will be 2" for the stand pipe first. Then the trap for my laundry tub above that.

I am trying to make sure I can tie that same 2" drain from the utility to the shower. Juat have to make sure it's low enough.

If so then....
I will cut the kitchen ci pipe back some and make sure there is a floor CO before it goes under the shower floor and then wye off to the 3" branch again. I will connect it with mission couple with ss bands.

I am still worried about that toilet vent. https://www.revisor.leg.state.mn.us/rules/?id=4715.2620

Tom, I ask on the IPC. That is what I wrote, but everywhere I look - MN kind of does "Our Code" thing.

The venting is close to UPC, but still allows a group to be vented. In order for me to do a vent on the laundry/shower combo - it would have to be a 2" vent all the up into the existing second floor. If I keep the vents seperate - I can keep that at 1.5 on this side of the plumbing room. I could tear open the wall upstairs and detached what is already connected there. Two vents from the bathroom : one from the lav and one from the tub/shower combo. From that point it connects to the 3" stack that goes up through the roof.

If I can't reach the existing vent below in the basement from the new lav without a redo of duct work, or dipping down. I have tried hard to find a way. Bugger - I don't want to add hvac work. Too much of the basement has already been finished.

So, the drain from the shower can work, if I attach it to the utility drain, but I will still need a vent line right off that, which is easier your way. I can then have a CO on the outside of that wall. Then, still run the kitchen waste on it's own but cut it back far enough and attach a CO that comes up to the floor outside of the shower floor. What's the best CO fitting in that situation? I like that idea of have a CO there, even if it for the kitchen.

If you find I am wrong about my arrangement, please let me know. I am a bit dizzy trying to follow something. I used a book years long ago they use in classes here, but handed it off. It isn't uptodate anyway.

speedball1 · Sep 5, 2009, 03:42 PM

Cyber,
I'm shutting down and kicking back. I'm tired and hungry so I'm going to go eat, pop a cold one and watch the tube. I'll be back in the morning. Perhaps one of the other experts can contribute. Regards, Tom

massplumber2008 · Sep 6, 2009, 06:46 AM

Hi Cyber...

I've been real busy lately and finally getting back in here to answer some questions... ;)

Hope this isn't too late...

I would just run 3" over to everything and then install a reducing clamp. Here, you would purchase a 4" cast iron x 3" PVC mission clamp.

You could also purchase a 4"x3" PVC reducer and then install a 4" cast iron x 4" PVC mission clamp. Either way works.

Good luck!

MARK

cyberheater · Sep 6, 2009, 07:00 AM

Is a bushing legal to use within the 4" long sweep ell? 3 inch into 4 inch to accept the 3"
Pipe at vertical connection.

I am glad you are busy - I hope that means you are working some good hours. Economy has been tough up here on trade workers.

massplumber2008 · Sep 6, 2009, 07:09 AM

A bushing will work fine here. Yup! Very busy... sorry things slow that way! Hopefully, economy is recovering as they all suggest!

Cyber...

I'll be in and out tonight... let us know if you need more.

MARK

Milo Dolezal · Sep 6, 2009, 03:54 PM

I am little late to this discussion. I was asked to jump in and see if I can chip in my 2 cents based on my UPC experience.

No need to respond if all is clear to you . I think Mark, as always, did very well...

I was able to open your original sketch. All is clear to me how to proceed with rough in.

If you still need help, than let me know. Just want to make sure all is taken care of. Thank you. Milo

cyberheater · Sep 10, 2009, 03:52 PM

Oh, you guys are so wonderful.

I am gearing up now for my inspection tomorrow. I HAD to make sure my venting spacing (from trap to vent) was not going to cause a problem with the inspector. So
I kept the one for the laundry tub and connected to existing 1.5 that runs upstairs through the bathroom. I also connected my shower vent (1.5) to that location.

I have a little issue with getting my "wyes" at a true 45 degrees for my vents on my toilet and shower, however. I had to already replace some installation because my "helper" just did not get what I was telling him to do, but I am looking at the wyes and thinking they may be okay.

My pressure test is tomorrow, and I can't help to worry about them. I know that every inspector is different, but if they bug me..
Anyway - any idea on how close I can come to be at a 45 Degree angle and it being okay?

I have clean outs on all my vent/drain locations.

massplumber2008 · Sep 10, 2009, 04:33 PM

Hi cyber...

Teflon tape all cleanouts and then run the test BEFORE the inspector arrives. Then, when sure all is good you can stand for the inspection.

In terms of the wye fittings... Aren't all the pipes in and connected? If they are all connected and pipes are pitched then there is absolutely no reason to worry about the true 45 degree pitch here... as long as the wyes run above the centerline of the drain (for vents) or at/above centerline for waste.

Let me know if I misunderstood.

MARK

cyberheater · Sep 10, 2009, 07:49 PM

Mark, you got it. I have all the wyes at drains pitched slightly, and all wyes for vents are pitched so that the end of the wye is above center line. I am up tonight making sure the "ballons" are in, and all pipes capped and plugs tightly on, then I will do the pressure test. Crossing my fingers.

Thank you again.

massplumber2008 · Sep 11, 2009, 03:52 AM

Good luck today!

cyberheater · Sep 11, 2009, 05:38 AM

Thanks Marc!

I did my pretest, and it held solid for about
A good 8 minutes, then it started to go a bit.
I checking my test caps because everything else doesn't show anything. Its Friday!

Update: holding for almost 15 before any movement. Good to go!

For Tom - I did put a co on the kitchen drain before it turns into the shower drain. I like the maintenance idea on that.

I have it position just before where the future tiled shower. I thank you for that.

cyberheater · Sep 11, 2009, 02:54 PM

Okay, so the pressure test held for 15 just fine.
I checked it right before the inspector came. Guess what? Balloon from closet bend came shooting out. Yep. Then I can hear air coming from the test tee from the vertical section of the stack were another balloon was. Yep, was rechecking everything when the inspector came. Was able to hold pressure again, but not as steady... but he still passed it.

He heard the air from the test tee balloon, and believed that it did hold before and like the layout and all the fittings were perfect, and vents in exactly the right place. He also said "I bet your ready to cover that muck up!

Passed. Thank you for all your help. Lesson learned was don't over test. (grin)

Happy and I have you all to thank too. Cool beans!